I'm in the process of making a set of side bead planes, ranging from 1/8" up to 1/2". A bead bigger than 1/2" is probably only going to be found on some architectural moulding, not on furniture. These planes need boxing to stand up to the wear where the quirk is cut. In my case I'm making the planes out of QS beech with persimmon for the boxing. Persimmon is the only species native to North America that is a member of the ebony family. It takes a fine edge and is durable.
Cutting a slot for the boxing was easy enough on the table saw. The next step is to get a snug fit on the boxing -- not too tight that it splits the body and not so loose that it leaves gaps for the glue. It also needs to be cut on a bias with the grain angle matching the bed angle of the plane -- 55 degrees in my case. I resawed a couple of pieces of persimmon at 1/4" thick and clued these together to get the length, then began cutting off strips at the required angle.
I made a simple jig to use in sizing a strip of boxing. It has guides to keep the plane aligned and shoulders that act as a depth stop. Four wood screws at the end can be adjusted for stops. Just keep them below the shoulders to avoid hitting one with the plane iron. I use my Stanley 62, but a no. 4 or 5 is the same width. Each side has three bolts that lock the guides in place and fix the depth stop. Just put a strip of boxing in place and plane until it stops cutting.
Here you can see the boxing glued in place and ready to complete the profile. It's important to pay attention on this step. I accidentally got the boxing grain running in the wrong direction for one. Fortunately, I discovered the error before the glue had set, removed and reoriented it.
After cutting the steps for shoulder and depth stop, the rest of the profile is shaped with a scraper. This is really just the bead, leaving the quirk cut from the persimmon boxing.
Irons get partially shaped, then hardened and tempered. These are tempered (heated to color of straw) and ready for the final polishing before honing the edge.
There's a lot more left in getting to the final result -- fitting the iron and wedge, shaping the body, applying a finish and testing. It's a pleasing experience when it all comes together. As a woodworker there are few more satisfying tactile experiences that the feel of a plane in use. I love the music moulding planes make as they zip through the wood.
The plane pictured makes a 1/4" bead. I made two, so if you buy the winning raffle ticket one of these can be yours!
Cutting a slot for the boxing was easy enough on the table saw. The next step is to get a snug fit on the boxing -- not too tight that it splits the body and not so loose that it leaves gaps for the glue. It also needs to be cut on a bias with the grain angle matching the bed angle of the plane -- 55 degrees in my case. I resawed a couple of pieces of persimmon at 1/4" thick and clued these together to get the length, then began cutting off strips at the required angle.
I made a simple jig to use in sizing a strip of boxing. It has guides to keep the plane aligned and shoulders that act as a depth stop. Four wood screws at the end can be adjusted for stops. Just keep them below the shoulders to avoid hitting one with the plane iron. I use my Stanley 62, but a no. 4 or 5 is the same width. Each side has three bolts that lock the guides in place and fix the depth stop. Just put a strip of boxing in place and plane until it stops cutting.
Here you can see the boxing glued in place and ready to complete the profile. It's important to pay attention on this step. I accidentally got the boxing grain running in the wrong direction for one. Fortunately, I discovered the error before the glue had set, removed and reoriented it.
After cutting the steps for shoulder and depth stop, the rest of the profile is shaped with a scraper. This is really just the bead, leaving the quirk cut from the persimmon boxing.
Irons get partially shaped, then hardened and tempered. These are tempered (heated to color of straw) and ready for the final polishing before honing the edge.
There's a lot more left in getting to the final result -- fitting the iron and wedge, shaping the body, applying a finish and testing. It's a pleasing experience when it all comes together. As a woodworker there are few more satisfying tactile experiences that the feel of a plane in use. I love the music moulding planes make as they zip through the wood.
The plane pictured makes a 1/4" bead. I made two, so if you buy the winning raffle ticket one of these can be yours!
