Machining Ipe

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zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
Good morning all!

I have a bit of ipe cutoffs from a deck build and I’m thinking on making some cutting boards and other smaller projects. I’ve read through a bit of conflicting information online about machining ipe and want to hear members experiences with ipe (stories ranging from tearing up carbide to the use of diamond blades).

Most of my saw blades and router bits are carbide—will these work and last? What have y’all used to machine ipe?

Thanks for your input!
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I haven't cut a lot of it but what I did cut was not much different from other exotic hardwoods like bloodwood, ebony, Lignum Vitae, etc.
 

dancam

Dan
Corporate Member
I have machined Ipe with good results. Used carbide tooling with no significant problems. Ipe does produce some very fine splinters and I would be cautious of use for hand utensils. Another caution would be possible toxicity, you may want to research Ipe use for food related use.
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Echoing Mike's comments. I started with Ipe for exactly the same reason, I had deck cutoffs. Made my first cutting board from Ipe and maple, maybe 15 years ago. I used no special precautions in gluing it and Titebond of some flavor. Has survived regular (not daily) use, with only the occasional re-oiling needed. I LOVE the color and contrast to maple, it makes for stunning cutting boards. I have made a few other small projects and will warn you that the dust from this dark brown wood is yellow - weird really. I used normal carbide blades and bits without issue.

EDIT - additional comment:
One thing I love is how sanded/polished, Ipe keeps a great surface. One thing I made was an ice cream scoop (turned handle) and sanded it well. That has held up well without any finish oil or varnish at all.
Re Dan's comments about food use - I have not given it any thought. I have made several heavily used unfinished Ipe cookware pieces - a long handled grill spatula (flipper), wooden spoons (not exact shape as spoon), and some thin flexible spatula type pieces for use in a frying pan. As one piece items they survive well - no glue joints to be concerned with. They clean easily. Once completed they keep their shape and surface very well. If you go thin, the splinters are not fun. I have learned to sand the edge BEFORE I run my hand over the edge to determine if the edge is too sharp and it needs to be 'broken' or rounded over by sanding.
 
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zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
Thanks all!

Henry—You read my mind! I planned to use the ipe with some maple scrap. I planned to use the maple between the ipe using the grooves (ipe was grooved for hidden fasteners).
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Good morning all!

I have a bit of ipe cutoffs from a deck build and I’m thinking on making some cutting boards and other smaller projects. I’ve read through a bit of conflicting information online about machining ipe and want to hear members experiences with ipe (stories ranging from tearing up carbide to the use of diamond blades).

Most of my saw blades and router bits are carbide—will these work and last? What have y’all used to machine ipe?

Thanks for your input!

It is extremely hard wood as others have mentioned. I bought a large piece of 12/4 and made cutting boards from it. I originally tried ripping it on the tablesaw but found a bandsaw worked much better. The blade was not carbide and held up well. I mixed it with rock maple (all endrgrain cutting boards) and found it hard enough to dull knives, so maybe it not the best thing to use for cutting boards?.
 

kserdar

Ken
Senior User
Way back in 2013, I CNC'ed this joint in Ipe 2x4 material ...
IPE-woodjoint (Medium).JPG
It worked great! All 4 corners of the sliding barn door were done with the same joint.
Since then, Ipe scraps have been used in several different things - Mallet head, edge for bar table top ....
 
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zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
Thanks all!

I’m definitely going to wear a dust mask when cutting and I’m going to minimize machine cuts!

I’m also thinking of buying a disposable table saw blade.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
There are not many woods harder than Ipe nor more resistant to fire, but those are not necessarily the most ideal traits for a cutting board as the silica content that gives them a good portion of that hardness and resistance is also hard on tooling edges — however, for the quantity of board feet in a cutting board it is the wear on your knife set that might be the greater long term concern as it will be roughly equivalent to using a very fine grit sandpaper for a cutting board. Knives would not be expected to cut as deeply into Ipe over time versus a softer wood, but that, again, comes at the expense of increased wear on knife edges which will mean more regular sharpening (how much added sharpening is hard to quantify as that depends in part upon how much pressure is applied to the knife). I’m not a chef nor an expert on knives by far, but my understanding is that an end grain style cutting board made from a softer wood with much lower silica content (less abrasive) is much easier on the knives over the long haul.

Ipe, again due to the silica content, is hard on machining tool edges and carbide knifes and blades will hold up best, but in limited quantity it is not a major tooling concern unless you will be processing a lot of Ipe or if your tooling edges are already dull (in which case you will want to have your tooling sharpened first). You will want to be gentle and take lighter than normal passes during jointing and planing operations and very, very, light passes when routing the wood.

I’ve not had a chance to work with Ipe myself, but if it works anything like Purpleheart (at half the Janka Hardness, around 1800) then that means very light passes with sharp bits or the wood is prone to kickbacks if the bit takes too large a bite and ends up cleaving the wood in two as working Purpleheart with a router was like trying to route a piece of glass and I had to limit passes to no more than 1/32” per pass (yes, 32 passes to penetrate 1-inch!). I had much more issues with trapped operations on the router or when cutting across the grain as opposed to jointing or planing operations where things went quite smoothly save for taking cuts at about half my usual depth — but, again, this is based upon my experience with Purpleheart at half the hardness of Ipe and not Ipe itself.
 

JohnW

New User
John
I've done several projects using ipe including boxes and a custom screen door. The Titebond II used on the boxes has held up but they don't get much use or handling. I used epoxy with pinned tenons on the door. It gets slammed every day and has held up well.

Ipe is harder to work than most but with sharp blades, not a problem. Ipe is heavy. The poker chip boxes are too heavy in fact and I'll not do that again. The heavy weight of the door is a plus.

If you are planning on making end grain boards, I'd cut off the hidden fastener groove. It will show in the final product. If you are making long grain boards, then the groove and tongue will help the glue hold everything together. Either way, you will want to trim (rip) off the small radius that they put on deck lumber, assuming you want a flat joint.
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
I ended up making cheese boards with maple and ipe scrap (top board is wet, haven’t decided on ‘finish’ yet).

IMG-5145.jpg
7e4247be-7732-45c8-a65f-3f8ce492f85f
 
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zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
Update:

The ipe in one of the original cheese boards cracked and the other board noticeably bowed, so I scrapped them and built two more.

This is after the first coat of mineral oil:

cheeseboard.jpg

I learned a bit from working with the ipe. I used a thin kerf blade that seemed to flex when making the first cut. I would then leave the fence in the same place and run the newly sawn board through again and it would leave a smoother cut.

Titebond III seems to work well. I glued a test piece, let it dry and then tried to break the joint. I was unable to break the joint even when striking with a hammer.

I used a dust mask like most recommended and did not experience any respiratory distress.
 
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