M-1 Latex Additive and Extender

[Wally]

Has anyone used this in SW Emerald Urethane? Any thoughts?

 

[Henry W]

No, but can you explain what M-1 does, and why you might want to use it? I am not familiar with that product; is it like floetrol, a viscosity modifier that helps level?.

 

[Wally]

No, but can you explain what M-1 does, and why you might want to use it? I am not familiar with that product; is it like floetrol, a viscosity modifier that helps level?.

Yes, supposed to improve flow, help eliminate brush marks, and increase open time by 10-15 minutes.
I used a little in Bullseye 123 primer yesterday, and it seemed to help open time just a bit.

 

[Henry W]

Wally
I have used SW Emerald Urethane, without modifications. I liked it a lot, although it has been 10-12 months since I used. I don't recall any specifics, but application and finish were both as good as I can do with a brush (and by my own admission I can paint - haha).

General comment - Paint formulations have a LOT of ingredients (most at concentrations far less than 1%); the more expensive paints, like Emerald, have way more than the cheaper paints. Most of these relate to how the paints 'handles' (brushes or sprays), how it flows out (related to but not exclusively to open time), and of course what the final properties are (aesthetic, like gloss level, and performance, like scrub-ability).
I typically avoid messing with the chemistry of a formulated product (like paints, stains), except to dilute at times. Often adding as little as 5% water (and stirring well) helps flow and brush marks, although I do not know why you'd want to increase open time. When I do this, I only add water to the transferred amount (what I expect to use), not to the source gallon or 5 gallon bucket; that way if I add too much water I can go back and add more undiluted paint. Start adding in very small amounts, it takes less than you think to modify the way the paint handles!

Are you experiencing an issue with brush marks in this product, or are you trying to prevent an issue you have seen in the past? I do not recall having a brush marks issue with Emerald, quite the opposite really - but that is a fuzzy recollection so don't quote me on that. SW has loads of people to help with technical issues and they can make recommendations. Your local store manager can be a great first resource (one of the reasons to use a 'paint store' rather than just a retailer that sells paint).

 

[Wally]

Wally
I have used SW Emerald Urethane, without modifications. I liked it a lot, although it has been 10-12 months since I used. I don't recall any specifics, but application and finish were both as good as I can do with a brush (and by my on own admission I can paint - haha).

General comment - Paint formulations have a LOT of ingredients (most at concentrations far less than 1%); the more expensive paints, like Emerald, have way more than the cheaper paints. Most of these relate to how the paints 'handles' (brushes or sprays), how it flows out (related to but not exclusively to open time), and of course what the final properties are (aesthetic, like gloss level, and performance, like scrubbability).
I typically avoid messing with the chemistry of a formulated product (like paints, stains), except to dilute at times. Often adding as little as 5% water (and stirring well) helps flow and brush marks, although I do not know why you'd want to increase open time. When I do this, I only add water to the transferred amount (what I expect to use), not to the source gallon or 5 gallon bucket; that way if I add too much water I can go back and add more undiluted paint. Start adding in very small amounts, it takes less than you think to modify the way the paint handles!

Are you experiencing an issue with brush marks in this product, or are you trying to prevent an issue you have seen in the past? I do not recall having a brush marks issue with Emerald, quite the opposite really - but that is a fuzzy recollection so don't quote me on that. SW has loads of people to help with technical issues and they can make recommendations. Your local store manager can be a great first resource (one of the reasons to use a 'paint store' rather than just a retailer that sells paint).

At first I was having no issues with open time using the SW Urethane. But, the further I got into the quart, the less open time I had. I'm not an experienced painter, but I hate stuff that looks like I'm not.
I have experimented with most of SW paints and have settled on the Emerald.
The casing that I'm having an issue with is 5"wide. I'm headed out to get a wider Purdy to see if that will help
I appreciate your input very much!

 

[Henry W]

... I'm not an experienced painter, but I hate stuff that looks like I'm not.
I have experimented with most of SW paints and have settled on the Emerald.

Haha, I am somewhat experienced and still face issues - one of the reasons I like SW! I can get support and recommendations.

Emerald is a good paint that is not cheap - it is my go to (now) for interior trim. You should be able to solve this brush marks issue - and do go ask SW. They sold you the paint, and will (should!) support it through any issues.

 

[Oka]

M-1 and others like Floetrol are essentially retarders and they add their special mix design that also include some kind of emulsifier.
A Small amount Glycerine will retard acrylic paints, the emulsifier part is propitiatory.

Better explanation - I was painting out my trim and decided I should get a real painter in there to do it. I am decent at painting, but at the time I was just too busy. So, everyone told me "Get Sang, Get Sang, you want Sang" ....... So I got Sang to do the trim- He used my brushes, my paint and all my tools he only brought a rag with him, when he was done all my trim almost looked like it had be lacquered sprayed... bottom line ... It is the guy with the brush in his hand and his eyes and technique.
What was beguiling, was watching him work and thinking I go the exact same thing he was doing, why does his work look so much better ?

 

[Wally]

M-1 and others like Floetrol are essentially retarders and they add their special mix design that also include some kind of emulsifier.
A Small amount Glycerine will retard acrylic paints, the emulsifier part is propitiatory.

Better explanation - I was painting out my trim and decided I should get a real painter in there to do it. I am decent at painting, but at the time I was just too busy. So, everyone told me "Get Sang, Get Sang, you want Sang" ....... So I got Sang to do the trim- He used my brushes, my paint and all my tools he only brought a rag with him, when he was done all my trim almost looked like it had be lacquered sprayed... bottom line ... It is the guy with the brush in his hand and his eyes and technique.
What was beguiling, was watching him work and thinking I go the exact same thing he was doing, why does his work look so much better ?

now you've hurt my feelings.

I get it for sure. I'm gonna get the hang of it though. I've got plenty to do.

 

[Oka]

Don't feel bad I had the same feeling watching the guy. What I did notice was he applied the paint cross grain @ corners and connections before going with the grain. Then, the second thing was how he laid off the finish, his brush strokes would get lighter when he was finishing. Easy to watch, not so easy to do.

 

[Wally]

If it's as complicated as a golf swing I may never get the hang of it. I quit that silly crap years ago.

 

[Henry W]

If it's as complicated as a golf swing I may never get the hang of it. I quit that silly crap years ago.

Well if you have to master golf to become decent at painting then I will never master (either of these!). I think I am better at painting than at golf. Now if I can figure out a way to have someone pay me to swing a golf club, I'd be more interested.

 

[Wally]

A short update. I'm a novice painter and I acknowledge that with no reservations, so take this as just a description of part of a learning experience.
I went ahead with the M-1 trial. I also purchased a 4" wide Purdy made for latex application because most of the issue I was having was on a 5" wide craftsman door casing header that I made.
I put two cap fulls of M-1 in a quart of the Emerald Urethane. I used an 1.5 inch brush for the top and bottom caps of the casing and the 4" for the wide face. The difference for me is very satisfying. It is not a pro like finish, but it is enough for me to continue with the same process and formula. I am very pleased.
Final thought is that a novice using latex could benefit from at least giving it a try. It's just a suggestion and certainly not a recommendation.