Looking for someone to do a bunch of beveled cuts on plywood for a project in Raleigh

ReallyRaleigh

New User
ReallyRaleigh
I’m new to the forum, so apologies if this post is in the wrong place. Essentially, I’m trying to dupe the Pottery Barn Folsom end tables. The directions call for a 2x4 frame and then waterfall wrapping cabinet grade plywood around that frame. Is there anyone in Raleigh who would complete the cuts for about 50 cents per cut? I estimate about 150 cuts total. I would do the assembly and finishing the tables myself.

Frame example
25232BF1-A9BE-469A-9644-3BA5A9AC2D4F.jpeg


Wrapped in plywood
C018635C-1DDD-4BB6-AB2E-F9512BAB3F92.jpeg


Inspo
C94BE8C5-00A5-4FF0-AB5D-43B349116553.jpeg
 

Phillip Mitchell

Phillip
User
I don’t know, but I charge ~$75 / hr for my shop rate in my small shop. I know some that are double that in a larger shop with more overhead and I just don’t see this happening start to finish completely in one hour.

I will often have a 2 or 4 hr (half day) minimum charge for a small, walk in type project like this as the total time it takes away from other projects that are already going on is usually a bit more than the actual time spent cutting. Communicating about the work, setting up, moving materials, and cleaning up after is all part of the project that is in addition to the actual cuts and all takes times. I’m not sure what I would charge for something like this without knowing a bit more details, but definitely more than 1 hr of labor.
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
I think price will be based more on time. Probably a minimum of 2-3 hours including setup and preparing material. I’d guess a shop rate of at least $100 (not sure about woodworking but that’s what paid for sheet metal fabrication about a year ago).

You’ll also need someone that knows how to accurately cut 45 angles.
 

Warped Woodwerks

.
Senior User
That is a lot of precision cuts. Setting up machine, moving plywood around, measuring, etc., etc. 1 inaccurate cut and..
Depending on the size of the shop, overhead, etc., I would comfortably say one should expect to pay $50-$100, (slightly more in some cases & depending on other variables) for an hourly rate. Of course, this is my opinion.


Hopefully you find someone that will take you up on that offer, provide you with great cuts, and not price gouge.
 

ReallyRaleigh

New User
ReallyRaleigh
Thanks to everyone for the guidance! It makes sense that someone might charge by the hour instead of the cut. Like Rory mentioned, I just need to find someone willing to take on the project and not price gouge. I understand now that it will likely be a few hundred dollars, and that I will need to make sure the person is very detail oriented and skilled.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Dimensioned drawings of each part will be the key to getting a good quote. Since plywood can vary in thickness, the inside dimensions will be the key.
If you were to take that 2x4 framing lumber frame to a shop and ask them to do the engineering drawings to fit the sample, you may have to visit a lot of different shops.
 

HITCH-

Hitch
Corporate Member
The inspiration piece seems to be smaller and made of solid pine lumber.
What is the plan to cover the plywood edges on your piece?
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Maybe somebody with a large CNC could cut out the pieces.

Roy G
I have a 4 x 8 CNC , and youre probably right about the application. A 90 degree V bit would work well here. But, Theres programming time as well as machine time involved here. Id have to check to see if my 90 degree bit can make such a wide cut as well as the the time involved to do so ( more than one pass required, youd be channeling a 45 degree x 1-1/2" wide groove). Ideally, the parts could be cut sinultaneously , meaning to miters at one time but then the depth versus part width becomes critical and near impossible to correct on the fly, since youre cutting on the "dumb " side of the parts here. I guess what Im saying is, probably not worth it for me, not to mention the time involved would far exceed $75.
 

JohnnyR

John
Corporate Member
I'd be leery of using 2x4s for the frame, but if you do, cut the pieces a bit oversized and let them sit in the shop for a few weeks before planing them flat and cutting to final size.
 

Phillip Mitchell

Phillip
User
They should all be beveled at 45 degrees, so no visible ends.
That’s one of those designs that works in a rendering or model or napkin sketch from a designer, but is a nightmare to execute in reality, particularly with an interior frame made from framing lumber.

The miters and bevels are unlikely to just “come together” perfectly on all sides everywhere unless every corner and plane is perfectly square and flat…and even then it can present challenges.

I tend to dislike miters, though. They appear so simple but are often so fussy and frustrating to get perfect cut and assembled.
 

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