Looking for glue & finish recommendations

[JeffH]

Hey, all -- I have a small outdoor table in progress, but I haven't done that many outdoor builds and I'm looking for some advice. This piece will be on a roof-sheltered patio, but outdoors nevertheless.

First, I like using hide glue for furniture but I'm wondering whether outdoor temperatures could weaken the glued joints -- I'm in the Western North Carolina area, and the way summers have been recently temperatures could get well into the 90s. Titebond would handle that, but it's not as reversible as hide glue, should the need arise. Think hide glue would be OK in this case?

Second, the original plan was for this piece to be sprayed black so I'm using mahogany rather than teak or cedar. Now it's supposed to be a clear finish. My usual go-to oil finish is an oil blend similar to Maloof's with an oil-based polyurethane top coat(s). Since this piece would be sheltered from rain and getting only indirect sunlight, do I need to worry about UV damage to the finish? If so, any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

 

[tvrgeek]

True waterproof glue means epoxy. Or talk to marine suppliers. Sure TB-III is moisture "resistant" but not proof.
I do not know of any finish that is totally UV, outdoor proof. Outdoor furniture just needs to be refinished every few years. That said, I would just use enamel over a lacquer primer. Maybe the modern water based automotive finishes are flexible enough to hold up on wood. I don't know.

 

[Ricksmi]

I'm in western Carolina as well and I prefer Titebond III for outdoor projects but hide glue was the primary glue for over a century and outdoor furniture stood the test of time with just hide glue. As for UV indirect sunlight should not be an issue and if your using a oil blend you may need to refresh the finish in a few years. I have two Adirondack chairs in direct sunlight several hours each day and the oil finish is 3 years old and holding up well.

 

[Rwe2156]

I totally agree with Scott re: Titebond 3. IMO "waterproof" is very subjective.

Epoxy or resin glue is bomb proof.

I've got some deck chairs on my porch 2 I did with UV Osmo and 2 with Total Boat Gleam. The Osmo chairs will mildew and need cleaning. The varnish chairs only need a rinsing.

 

[helper]

Agree about Titebond III being "waterproof" is very subjective... I have been let down many times for Titebond III around water (take it from a sailor). One of the glues that I remember was called "Cascamite" - it is a dry powered resin wood glue that all you have to do is add water to activate. Just a quick note about Cascamite, it is VERY temperamental about consistency, temperature and the likes.

An old advertisement for Cascamite: Popular Mechanics

 

[JRedding]

I’ve used TBIII for outdoor tables and furniture on a covered patio without problem. The key consideration for me between an epoxy or resin and TBIII was the fact everything is on a covered patio so while subject to moisture it is never getting directly hit by rain.

 

[bob vaughan]

Consider several coats of a good paint if that could fit your requirements for an acceptable finish.
I agree with Helper on the Cascamite. Good stuff. Dap plastic resin glue is about the same. Titebond III may qualify for the 'waterproof' descriptor, but it doesn't say for how long and that's the 'gotcha' detail.
Cover the surfaces with good paint and about any glue will work.

 

[Tarhead]

As far as wanting something reversible...TBIII starts to soften at about 120f.

 

[JeffH]

Consider several coats of a good paint if that could fit your requirements for an acceptable finish.
I agree with Helper on the Cascamite. Good stuff. Dap plastic resin glue is about the same. Titebond III may qualify for the 'waterproof' descriptor, but it doesn't say for how long and that's the 'gotcha' detail.
Cover the surfaces with good paint and about any glue will work.

Based on past experience watching finishes get hammered by UV on direct-sun decks, I agree totally -- which is why the original plan was for latex paint. If it were up to me and I knew we were looking for a natural finish I would have used teak. Probably shouldn't have shown any work in progress until the paint was on.

 

[Berta]

When I made patio furniture, I used deck stain. We lived in NE Ohio at the time. I never had a problem. When I needed to, in the spring, I touched it up with deck stain.

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

Whatever finish you choose, a couple of coats of spray-on automotive clear coat will double the life of your finish plus it will seal out moisture from TB III joints. It's intended for metal so it will flex with seasonal wood movement. When you do have to refinish (5-10 years?), just scuff it and reapply fresh clear coat. The original stain/paint/lacquer/varnish should still be good. Clear coat is available in rattle cans for a one-time experiment.

 

[JeffH]

Whatever finish you choose, a couple of coats of spray-on automotive clear coat will double the life of your finish plus it will seal out moisture from TB III joints. It's intended for metal so it will flex with seasonal wood movement. When you do have to refinish (5-10 years?), just scuff it and reapply fresh clear coat. The original stain/paint/lacquer/varnish should still be good.

Interesting idea, thanks. I didn't realize that automotive clear was available in satin, but apparently it is. Might be something to experiment with.

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

Interesting idea, thanks. I didn't realize that automotive clear was available in satin, but apparently it is. Might be something to experiment with.

We will see more automotive finishes making their ways into our woodworking industry. The market for auto finishing is so much bigger and the R & D is so much greater. I'm expecting to see someone put these new ceramic and hydrophobic coatings that are obsoleting paste wax auto shining on wood finishes. I have high hopes for this method; I don't have the confidence to risk one of my own projects and doing it on my own.