Lectern Joinery

[Plunkett]

Hey all - my church asked me to take this old lectern they found in a building they are moving into and put on a new top and refinish. As I dove into the project, the post is pine - really nice fine grain pine at that. It was assembled with nails with butt joints. The top and bottom were also assembled with nails. They actually gave me a top they found to put on. It's red or white oak. They wanted to use as many pieces from the original building as possible. The only other pieces that will be new are the base which needed a total replacement, since it had checked badly. All that to say, how would you all attack the joinery of the top to the post? Complicated or simple solutions welcome!

Here are a couple

pics in its original state.

 

[Mike Davis]

I would screw a block to the bottom of the platform and set that into the hollow of the post.

 

[Plunkett]

I would screw a block to the bottom of the platform and set that into the hollow of the post.

Good idea! When setting the block, would you rely only on glue or also use screws? If I was to get a tight enough fit, I think glue would be strong enough, right? I know it will be picked up by the top all the time. Would you suggest also screwing it from the side of the posts into the block set inside the post for additional strength?

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

Mike's method is ingenious because the joinery will be hidden. In regards to using screws, yes, through the sides. You analyzed the joinery issue correctly; the lectern will be picked up by the top, and over time that will be a lot of stress on a joint that only has 2 glue surfaces of edge grain to face grain. Run the grain of the block front to back and put the screws in the sides. Make the block at least 1" deep into the post. Your post implies the entire base will have to be rebuilt. If so mount it the same way.

 

[dancam]

A good solution for fitting the top. Since you're planning to redo the base, I would suggest making the footprint larger to give more stability to the lectern.

 

[Mike Davis]

I would make the block at least 2 inches thick.
Use two screws into each side and no glue in case it needs to be repaired sometime in the future.

 

[zdorsch]

I wouldn’t be surprised to find something similar for attaching the post to the base that Mike suggested. I think the trim may be hiding that connection now.

I would screw in the block from the sides at both the top and the bottom. Later to back and hide with trim at both the top and bottom of the post.

For the top, if you do not want to screw through the top, I would use pocket hole screws from the sides and then cover with trim (this would also negate using a block at the top of the post). Screwing through the top into the block would be a stronger connection, if it’s not heavy I think pocket screws would be a good option.

 

[Plunkett]

This is very helpful everyone. I'd like to add trim under the top where it meets the post - and the bottom. Whether I have the skills to do it is the real question!

 

[Mike Davis]

To clarify, I would glue and screw the block to the top, but only screw the block to the post. I think this is the strongest connection.

 

[Martin Roper]

Fully agree on the block and a bigger base.

 

[bob vaughan]

That's clearly a carpenter-built piece. The top is a piece of Douglas fir plywood and the trim around the bottom looks like door/window casing from that era. The column looks like standard 1x6 C&Better pine.
Good suggestions on beefing things up.