Latest project...design check

[DaveO]

My parents asked me to make them a corner "chest" of drawers. They gave me a few dimensions to work with. This is what I have came up with for the basic design -

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showfull.php?photo=15593

I am planning on building it out of solid stock, QS spalted Beech. I plan to use floating webframes to support the drawer guides and kickers. I might make the webframes out of 3/4" ply (as I have a bunch of scrap lying around). Am I going to have any movement issues with that plan? I will only glue the center of the webframes into dadoes in the side of the case. Any other pit-falls that I might have missed???? I need to make this as simple and quickly as possible, while still producing something worthy of my parents (my woodworking tool collection benefactors :-D). They are hoping on having it by Thanksgiving 8-O.
I really appreciate any advice that can be offered.
TIA!
Dave

 

[Travis Porter]

I have made one similar to what you are doing with doors instead of drawers. Once you get it partially assembled it looks more like a boat than a cabinet if you have it laying horizontally.

A few suggestions/thoughts:

Don't go to a sharp corner in the back. Cut it off some parallel with the front. Makes things a bit easier and you are able to use some stock that you wouldn't otherwise use.

Make a jig or clamp assembly or something to make sure all of your web frames, top and bottoms are exactly the same.

If you are going to have face frames, overlap them a 1/2" on each side so that you can scribe to the wall. Also consider if they have baseboard and if you are going to scribe around that and allow for it as well in your overlap. If you are going to remove the baseboard and cut it to fit, still allow a 1/2" for scribing to fit to the walls.

As for wood movement, I don't think so, but not sure of how you are going to run some parts, but you know as good as anyone.

 

[DaveO]

I have made one similar to what you are doing with doors instead of drawers. Once you get it partially assembled it looks more like a boat than a cabinet if you have it laying horizontally.

A few suggestions/thoughts:

Don't go to a sharp corner in the back. Cut it off some parallel with the front. Makes things a bit easier and you are able to use some stock that you wouldn't otherwise use.
I had thought about going along those lines. But after my last project, I am not a big fan of throwing any more angled cuts in then I have to. Will that help with clamping??

Make a jig or clamp assembly or something to make sure all of your web frames, top and bottoms are exactly the same. Great idea :icon_thum

If you are going to have face frames, overlap them a 1/2" on each side so that you can scribe to the wall. Also consider if they have baseboard and if you are going to scribe around that and allow for it as well in your overlap. If you are going to remove the baseboard and cut it to fit, still allow a 1/2" for scribing to fit to the walls.
This is going to be free standing, by itself. I will probably do a little bit of a overhang on the top to allow it to sit flush with the wall but give clearance for any base trim. I won't have any opportunity to scribe it to fit, as my parents live in Nashville, and will take it home with them (I won't be around to "install" it)

As for wood movement, I don't think so, but not sure of how you are going to run some parts, but you know as good as anyone.

Travis thanks for your replies. I would love to see what you made, I might be able to steal some ideas from it. I haven't been able to find anything like what I am wanting to do. I find chests of drawers on a larger scale, and small cabinets (of the scale that I am doing) with doors only. Maybe somebody knows something that I don't :eusa_thin:eusa_thin

Dave

 

[DavidF]

Check out your assy sequence carefully before you decide on joints for the side corners and rear point. You will need to install the web frames and then put the sides on as far as I can picture and that may complicate the glue up if you have long splines or similar on the front side corners and / or the back one.

 

[sawman]

Dave,
You might want to put a solid bottom in that case to prevent twist or racking. It could be a 1/4 ply, just to be safe.

My 2d,
Albert :saw:

 

[skipwill]

Good looking design!

I also have seen corner chests with triangular drawers. That gives more room and helps the sock that dosent get eaten by the dryer have a place to hide.

Skip

 

[cskipper]

If at all possible, bring it out a little more so the drawers can be deeper (longer). Also, unless there is an electric outlet behind it, cut a small place for cords to go through from the back to an outlet. You never know when folks will decide to put something on top like a tv or lamp and then you have cords hanging on the outside. Just my $.02 worth.

 

[Travis Porter]

I wish I could post pictures, but I built it 8 or 9 years ago and don't have any and it was bak in the day I was building for money.

Making the back part straight instead of into the corner does reduce angles some. For example, for your top and bottom solid pieces you just rip to the width.

You can still overhang the face frame and cut it out at the bottom, makes it easier. One other thing I though of is I made the one similar in two pieces, an upper and lower.

I have made 3 or 4 of these things and to your point, the angles can be challenging. Looking at the cages you made, you seem to have the angle face frame joints down pretty well.