Kitchen table finish?

[pcooper]

I've used a lot of different finishes on projects, but one that always seems to be not good enough is what I use on a table. I have a table that needs to be redone now that the finish has expired, and wondered what I should put on that will stand up to fairly rough use (kids). Any application will work, I can spray or brush on, I don't mind multiple coats, or sanding in between and all that, just need something really hard. So what do you use?

 

[McRabbet]

What is the current finish? If it is natural wood or even veneer, I'll tell you what I did 3-1/2 years ago to a Maple veneer top on our kitchen table. We had moved into our present home a few months earlier and the top was a mismatch to our cherry finish cabinets and was in poor shape from water stains.

I carefully sanded the old finish off, being careful to avoid sanding through the veneer. I sanded to 280 grit. Next, I stained the entire top with Behlen's Solarlux in Cherry, applying it with a good brush with the grain and then removing the excess with a lint-free rag to insure even application. (Solarlux is non-grain raising and is available in many colors -- it is expensive, but a pint bottle goes a long way). After 12 hours of dry time, I applied a sealer coat of Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop varnish cut 50:50 with their reducer. Again, slow brush strokes in a dust-free area. After 24 hours, I lightly sanded with 320 grit and tack clothed to remove sanding debris. I top coated with two more full strength coats (repeat sanding between them after 24 hours of dry time), being careful to avoid bubbles. That table still beads water when a spill occurs and none has penetrated. It is a gloss finish, but you can rub it out with 800 - 1,200 grit paper if you want after 48-72 hours of full cure time.

 

[pcooper]

The current finish is Deft, what there is of it, most of it has been scrubbed off by cleaning. This was not hard at all, but then again the table wasn't supposed to be used as it is now. It is solid oak, all natural with no stain. The grain could be filled I suppose. I'm not really worried about slick as glass, just hard as a rock. Guess slick would be nice too. :wsmile:

 

[NCPete]

bar top finish.... something I want to try, but as it stands now, my dinette has a glass top, and it's not the pretty table like DavidF made with a glass top, this one is a bad faux-cast iron table that LOML has had long before she met me. guess if we actually ever ate at it, we might have worn it out by now:BangHead:

 

[Makinsawdust]

Yeah, Deft brushing lacquer won't last long at all. I'm surprised you don't see rings where glasses of cold liquids have been set on it. You want to use something with a harder film like, conversion varnish, oil based polyurethane, bar top finish or Waterlox. Of these three, medium gloss Waterlox would be the most like applying the Deft and the one I would recommend. It's hard to mess up using it. It flows and self levels with almost no nips. I put it on with a foam brush straight out of the can. Two or three coats with a foam brush will give you a thick hard finish. If you want a satin finish, rub out the gloss cause the Waterlox Satin is a very different chemistry and just don't do as well. FYI, Waterlox takes about 12-24hrs to dry and cost about $20 a quart.
Hope this helps.
Rob

 

[JohnW]

Phillip,

Here's another positive comment about Behlen Rock Hard Table Top Finish. I've used it on several flat tops and was pleased with the results. One is a kitchen table that gets used and washed every day.

I applied it as a wipe on finish using a home made cotton applicator. The varnish was cut about 20% with thinner. The kitchen table has 8-10 thin coats which were very lightly scratched up with 220 in between coats. Each coat dried for 24 hours and the last coat cured for 4 weeks before rubbing out with a standard run through finer grits up to 8000.

This finish levels very well and shows no witness lines during rub out. It does impart a slight amber color but in my case it was a desired effect.

And it is very tough which is what you asked for.

John W

 

[pcooper]

Behlen Rock Hard Table Top Finish.


Ok, this sounds like what I'm looking for, next is where does one obtain such a finish? I haven't even looked anywhere, so it may be under my nose and didn't know it.

 

[NCPete]

Phillip, I think you will find it in Klingspor's Woodworking Shop.

 

[pcooper]

Klingspor is a place I frequent, so I'll check there on Monday. At least I can walk in and see the stuff and ask questions from the friendly folks there. Thanks for the input on this one!!!:icon_thum

 

[McRabbet]

Don't forget your 10% discount at Klingspor's if you are DQ here, and you should be! I'd recommend getting a can of Behlen's RH Varnish Reducer with it. And JohnW's technique of wiping on the finish will work, too but be careful that your application is not too thick and that you keep it uniform. Personally, I prefer a high quality Chinese Bristle brush (they got those, too!) which is easier to keep uniform and thin -- but watch the bubbles! If you get them, you are pressing the brush too hard (even on the edge of the can) -- just dip in the varnish 1/2" and lightly remove excess from one side of the brush on can and apply with brush about 10-20 degrees from vertical, barely bending the bristles.

 

[pcooper]

Thanks for the information, I'd surely have messed up there. Finishing is something I've been doing wrong for a long time, I've never had anyone actually show me, or tell for that fact, how to do things. I'll surely be careful with this job and try your recommendations, no doubt the job will look much better that it could have.