Kitchen Room Table finish

[dpsnyder]

I am getting closer to finishing my kitchen kitchen table project in Brazilian Lyptus (similar to mahogany I think). I was considering either a danish oil finish or maybe a wipe on poly. Never used oil before but some seem to like it. It needs to be easy to clean and not leave rings. Note: the table top has a 3 inch wide edge of lyptus and the center is tiled.

Anyone have any thoughts on which would be the better type of finish?
Thanks
Dan

 

[DaveO]

I would definitely go with the wipe-on Poly finish, about 6-8 coats. Polyurethane is going to give you the most durable (home-shop applied) finish out there and that is what is need for a kitchen table top. Danish Oil finishes are great but don't offer the same amount of protection.
I am also a huge fan of Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. It will give you a little softer coat than a Poly, but does give you better options for repair-ability. Polyurethane provides such a tough topcoat that it is difficult to abrade and add a new coat. A softer "long-oil varnish" like Waterlox won't give you quite the scratch resistance, but thusly can be easily repaired.
Another excellent product is Bhelens Rock Hard Table varnish. It is very durable, but does also give you a bit more repair-ability over a straight Poly.


Dave

 

[Gofor]

For the wood, I will second the Behlens Rockhard Table Top Varnish. It flows (levels) much better than poly. On my walnut table (some pics of the finish at http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=1300&page=4). I started with brushing on a 50/50 mix (I used Behlens reducer) and then wiping it after I got the entire top covered, but on the third coat, I just brushed it on and let it level itself with no wiping. Worked great so I applied another just like it. I gave it a good 16 hours between coats with a 320 grit scuff sand to break the gloss.

It has withstood the holidays (35 people for dinner, etc) and daily use for about a month now. It is a high gloss finish, tho, so if you want an oiled look, you will have to dull it with 0000 steel wool or pumice.

Go

PS: I have also had good luck with a 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 poly/BLO/MS wipe on finish on end tables, etc, but have not tried the Waterlox, so cannot comment on it. The Behlens had a lot less fumes (probably due to the Naptha based reducer instead of the MS) and I was able to move it into the house within 48 hours, as opposed to about 4 days for the BLO/Poly mix.

I would not apply any varnish finish to the tiles. I would instead use a grout sealer for that portion. I used the Aquamix Penetrating Sealer from Lowes for the tile backsplash I installed over our sink and stove, and it is holding up excellently after 1 1/2 years.

 

[Travis Porter]

Isn't the lyptus open pored like mahogany? If it is, you might consider doing a grain filler.

 

[rhett]

My vote is for Waterlox. Rubbed oil look, easy to repair good durability and keeps the top from looking like plastic. If its strong enough for a floor, its definately strong enough for a table. Besides, the tile center will get alot of the abuse.

 

[Tom Dunn]

I love oil finishes, but I'd personally opt for a poly in this situation.
Poly rubbed out with rottenstone for a nice lusture is a particular favorite.