Jointer Electrical Question: UPDATE

[drw]

My five year old Grizzly 490X jointer is having issues. When I start it, it will run 10 to 15 seconds then stop, when the reset button is engaged, the machine will run 10 to 15 seconds and stop again. I called Grizzly Technical support and they suggested that it is one of two issues: 1) centrifugal switch/contact plates or 2) the run capacitor. I went ahead and ordered these components (price wasn't bad about $45 which includes shipping). That said, the run capacitor is on back order and will not be in until August . The other parts are in stock and should be here in a few days. I am hopeful that the issue is not the capacitor ... I took it out and it is not oily and the ends are not bulging. On the other hand, the contacts on the centrifugal switch are pretty burned. My question is about the run capacitor; IF that proves to be the part needed, is there any hope of finding one that will work or will I be out of business until August? I did a brief online search, but this proved to be fruitless...there are SO many types that I got lost before I could start!

I am very happy to report that the jointer is now running! All I did was sand the contacts associated with the centrifugal switch (they were pretty blackened) and reinstalled. It remains to be seen how long the fix lasts, but I do have a new switch and contacts on order, as well as a new run capacitor. I am very appreciative for all the suggestions and offers of assistance!

 

[Raymond]

Check with Grainger for a replacement run capacitor, I found one for my lathe through them.

 

[pop-pop]

My five year old Grizzly 490X jointer is having issues. When I start it, it will run 10 to 15 seconds then stop, when the reset button is engaged, the machine will run 10 to 15 seconds and stop again. I called Grizzly Technical support and they suggested that it is one of two issues: 1) centrifugal switch/contact plates or 2) the run capacitor. I went ahead and ordered these components (price wasn't bad about $45 which includes shipping). That said, the run capacitor is on back order and will not be in until August . The other parts are in stock and should be here in a few days. I am hopeful that the issue is not the capacitor ... I took it out and it is not oily and the ends are not bulging. On the other hand, the contacts on the centrifugal switch are pretty burned. My question is about the run capacitor; IF that proves to be the part needed, is there any hope of finding one that will work or will I be out of business until August? I did a brief online search, but this proved to be fruitless...there are SO many types that I got lost before I could start!

On my end of town, Motors and Controls on Hodges street has lots of caps.

If those start contacts are welded together, one will see your symptom. Also, listen carefully and you will notice that the motor is not coming up to full speed. Offhand, I can’t think of a cap failure that would make your symptom. Also, if the governor sleeve is stuck on the shaft, it could hold the contacts closed.

 

[Craptastic]

Yeah, Grainger should have a compatible one. Make sure you are talking to someone there that is knowledgeable about them and preferably a woodworker too.

 

[Charlie]

My five year old Grizzly 490X jointer is having issues. When I start it, it will run 10 to 15 seconds then stop, when the reset button is engaged, the machine will run 10 to 15 seconds and stop again. I called Grizzly Technical support and they suggested that it is one of two issues: 1) centrifugal switch/contact plates or 2) the run capacitor. I went ahead and ordered these components (price wasn't bad about $45 which includes shipping). That said, the run capacitor is on back order and will not be in until August . The other parts are in stock and should be here in a few days. I am hopeful that the issue is not the capacitor ... I took it out and it is not oily and the ends are not bulging. On the other hand, the contacts on the centrifugal switch are pretty burned. My question is about the run capacitor; IF that proves to be the part needed, is there any hope of finding one that will work or will I be out of business until August? I did a brief online search, but this proved to be fruitless...there are SO many types that I got lost before I could start!

Donn,
As Mike stated, Motors and Controls should have the cap. I would try them before Grainger.
Let me know if I can assist in any way.
Charlie

 

[ssmith]

Normally, if you’re comfortable doing it, you can remove the cover on the end of the motor and watch the centrifugal switch to be sure it actuates when you start it up. That would at least tell you if it’s functioning mechanically.

Another possibility (though unlikely) - is the motor and cutterhead freely turning? If something’s binding it could cause the reset to trip.

 

[AllanD]

I know this sounds pretty far out but my Grizzly 20" disc sander had a similar problem. The centrifugal switch wasn't opening. I called tech support and he suggested a new centrifugal switch. I ended up bolting a matching strip of lead sheeting to each centrifugal weight and it's been working fine ever since. It just needed a little extra weight.

 

[AllanD]

I have replaced quite a few capacitors and generally got them from McMaster-Carr or occasionally from Amazon.

 

[Oka]

IF the size and spec match the existing it will work. The starting capacitors are not anything special. I replaced one on my old grizzly saw and it cost me 10 bucks I actually have an extyra laying around here.

 

[golfdad]

Amazon has quite a large selection.

 

[Jim Wallace]

As others have noted there are other reliable sources for the capacitor. The specs should be listed on the outside of the capacitor (not the cover, the actual capacitor). It’s just a number of microfarads and voltage. You may also need the dimensions, although in my experience the dimensions that are given in the lists of available capacitors usually match the appropriate specs. Sometimes, though there may be multiple sizes or shapes and you may need to pick the right one. Grainger has a Capacitor Match selection guide in their online catalog that makes it easy. They usually have the most common ones in stock in Raleigh.

 

[drw]

I appreciate everyone's suggestions, it has given me a great starting point...I am optimistic I may be up and running soon.

 

[FredP]

A five year old chiwanese motor? I would just buy a new Leeson or Baldor motor and change it. 30 to 45 minutes tops.

 

[petebucy4638]

It is not difficult to test a capacitor if you have a multimeter with that function. Most of the capacitors that I have seen fail show no visible sign that they have gone bad. With run/start capacitors, it is not uncommon where the one side is good, and the other is bad. When replacing a capacitor, in addition to the need to match the specs of the original capacitor, you have to make sure that the replacement capacitor is either the same dimensions as the original, or that you can figure out how to mount the new capacitor, if it has a different form factor or dimensions. That is usually not a big deal with HVAC equipment, but it can be an issue with tools sometimes.

You should be able to find a replacement capacitor on Ebay or even Amazon too. Good Luck.