Japanese Hand Plane?

[zdorsch]

My google search leads me to Japanese hand plane, but the one I have doesn’t have the metal “bar” against the blade. The iron in the below hand plane is just wedged in place.

Any ideas if this might be something someone made imitating a Japanese hand plane?

There aren’t any markings. I think the body is white oak. As rough as it looks, the blade still cuts.

 

[Roy G]

That's the way Japanese planes are made. No chip breaker. Look at the blade it may have some markings on it. Probably laminated.

Roy G

 

[BML]

It is for sure a Japanese plane…aka a “kanna”. The plane body, or “dai”, might have a marking on the front, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it didn’t. The blade will usually have some engraved markings on one or both sides. Looks like you’ll have to clean it up to see about the markings.

Depending on the use, some do and some don’t have chip breakers. The finest shavings will be accomplished without a chip breaker, but this requires the proper mouth.

Any photos of the blade out of the dai?

BML

 

[BML]

And if you get the blade cleaned up and find markings…please post photos!

The back of the blade will have a hollow ground area, called a ura…if you decide to sharpen this, do not remove this area.

BML

 

[zdorsch]

And if you get the blade cleaned up and find markings…please post photos!

The back of the blade will have a hollow ground area, called a ura…if you decide to sharpen this, do not remove this area.

BML

Thanks Lee!

I had to watch some videos about how to remove the blade. Figured it out and there are very faint markings in what I assume is Japanese. My phone camera doesn’t pick up very well and I can’t find my DSLR.

 

[BML]

Try putting a piece of paper over it and shading over it with a pencil…might pick up the markings better. I should be able to get you a translation and possible the blacksmiths name, depending on how it is marked. What does the cutting end look like?

And how wide is the blade?

Lee

 

[BML]

Are you interested in sharpening/using it?

 

[Oka]

These are useful planes I have a couple. This kanna (Hira Ganna- smoothing plane) looks like the equivalent to a #4 plane. Looks like it is missing a steel rod across the opening used to hold the blade. Maybe it was made that way. You can clean it up and decide how far you want to go to restore it. Also, these are pull planes
You can lightly sand it and use a white scotch brite pad to get the surface crap off, then you can wash with a baking soda solution. This can bring out the writing if you cannot see it.
If you do restore it, you want to preserve the writings on the tool if possible. The rest of the tool surface, sand and get it flat and straight. Then, treat with linseed oil or equal. Prep the blade and get it true and sharp. The mouth and the rabbet for the blade to slide into looks like would need work, but it will work without any work on them. Restoring tools is a great way to learn and understand the tool's mechanics.

 

[BML]

The steel rod would only be needed if a chip breaker was being used. I suspect this dai was made to use without a chip breaker.

 

[zdorsch]

Thank you both!

I tried the pencil/crayon and paper and the mark is too shallow to get a good transfer. I messed with the picture settings and the single character a bit clearer. Above that there seems to be three smaller characters, but they’re not very clear and it looks like someone may have struck the blade with a hammer. I’m thinking of taking some correction fluid/white out to see if I can highlight the characters.



The blade is square on one side (pictured) and not the other. The blade is 1.5”. The blade is held securely in the body and there are no provisions for a bar or chip breaker.



I’m on the fence about using it. I also don’t like have tools only to look at!

 

[BML]

Interesting. It is on the small side, in terms of Japanese smoothing planes…more along the lines of a block plane size in with regards to the blades width, but that’s completely fine.

Most of my Japanese smoothin planes are between 60-70mm…so 2.3-2.75”. But like I said, completely fine that yours is more narrow, it will just dictate it’s usage a little more.

I would absolutely use it. Depending on how/who forged it, and what steel the cutting edge was made from, it will likely be just as good as anything you’ve used, or light years ahead. To get the best shavings, you will need a new dai, but you can certainly set that one up for initial testing. If anything, it can be useable and an interesting conversation piece in the shop.

Be carful however…if it is of good steel and forged correctly and set up with a good dai, you will be addicted.

I’ll be more than happy to answer any questions in sharpening and setting up.

Lee

 

[EricS]

The blade looks rough on the cutting edge. You will have to grind it back quite a bit to get a good straight edge,Take it slow. You will have to perform ura -dashi (tapping out). To maintain the cutting edge as you sharpen. It may be hard to perform ura- dashi if you grind it back all’s t one time.