Is this plane a good deal?

[chris99z71]

OK, what I know about planes you can fit on the head of a pin and still have room left for a flea on flea wrestling match so I need some help here.
Is this a good deal from Hartville tool? It's a #5 with a corrugated sole for $35. This would be my first plane. As an aside, what's the benefit of a corrugated sole?

 

[Travis Porter]

I am by no means a plane expert or would I consider myself good with one yet. I have just learned how to sharpen one. I will say for $35 you will be getting a $35 plane. IMO,It will need tuning up and probably a new blade from the start. If you have the time to do it then go for it. For example, 10 years ago I bought a record #5 and could never get it to work right. FWW had an article about tuning up planes and what you needed to do to get them right and lo and behold, I can make shavings with it now. It wasn't a lot of work, but it did take a little time. Basically, I flattened the sole, reworked the chip breaker, and put a new Hock blade in it.

I believe the corrugated soles are supposed to slide easier on boards, but I don't remember for sure.

 

[DaveO]

I am not a handtool expert nor a handtool snob:lol:. I bought a new Stanley #4 from Lowes a while back for about $35. Other than sharpening the iron with the correct bevel, I've done nothing to it and it works great. I think for your first plane, it is worth giving a try. I don't think Hartville tool would sell complete crap, it's not HF. I won't tell you about the plane I bought there, it wasn't worth the $12 I paid for it.

Dave

 

[Steve D]

I bought a Groz recently in about the same price category. It's not that they are crap, they just aren't great. After tuniing and flattening the sole it works well but I definitely plan to replace the blade with a Hock. In the future, I would tend to buy an old one and restore it. They clean up well and are much better construction than today's planes with the exception of the Lie Niel$en$.

 

[Monty]

I'm not a tool snob, but I usually recommend getting an older plane rather than a new one (ulness it's a Veritas or Lie-Nielsen, of course). Better bang for the buck that way. If you go with a vintage plane, you still will have to do some cleaning up and tuning, but at least this way you will end up with a plane you'll still be happy with down the road. Buy a cheaper, newer plane and you'll most likely want to replace it eventually.

 

[cmartinson]

I gotta follow the pack here. Now, being taught by men who remember what life was like when the only power tool was a skill saw. I am a firm believer in the old addage "A tool is only as good as the man using it." But, usually cheap tools are just that, CHEAP! Don't make the mistake of buying something twice. Used, is an excellent way to go. Veritas and Lie Nielson are copied after Stanely for a reason. Great tool for an unbeatable price.:icon_thum

 

[chris99z71]

Thanks for the awesome advice all!
Truthfully, I've never needed a plane. Just feel like it's something that I should have. Once I have one, i'm sure that I'll wonder how I got along without it. I think that the advice to buy a used one is solid. Of course, before I buy one, I'll be asking for opinions on it...

 

[Travis Porter]

Personally, I would go for it. It takes time and don't stick it in a drawer for 3 years if you get frustrated with it like I did. I never really had a use for one either, but getting the ripples out from the power planer or jointer is a whole lot better and faster with a hand plane than a power sander and a whole lot less dust going up your nose and through the shop.

My biggest recommendation is if you do get it and you get frustrated with it is to hook up locally with someone who can use one and get some hands on. I wish I had done that from the beginning. Seeing the shavings come off and the clarity of a board from a plane is a sweet thing.

 

[woodguy1975]

No!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[chris99z71]

No!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So what you're saying is, no?

 

[wapitiscat]

You mentioned that "you think you ought to have a [hand plane]" so I'll guess you don't have one already. If that's the case, you might want to consider a a Stanley block plane. I think you will be able to get more use from this sooner than a smooth or jack plane. I've used blocks for end grain work as well as smoothing face grain in a pinch. After you get the "bug" you can try some of the other styles. If you have a block and are looking to branch out, I also suggest getting the older Bailey planes from Ebay or some other used tool vendor. Most of these suit my needs after a little cleaning and sharpening. I would imagine that anything more than a sole flattening (like a new blade, etc.) would really make these babies hum.

 

[woodguy1975]

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:lol:

So what you're saying is, no?

 

[rickc]

Personally, I would go for it. ...

My biggest recommendation is if you do get it and you get frustrated with it is to hook up locally with someone who can use one and get some hands on. I wish I had done that from the beginning. Seeing the shavings come off and the clarity of a board from a plane is a sweet thing.

I would have to agree with Travis. However, if you do decide to order through Hartville, try this coupon code: HDX806. I requested a catalog from them, and will be placing an order shortly. The coupon code was on the inside of the catalog, and is worth 20% off your first order. Directions say to mention it before you begin your order if doing so by phone, or type it in the code in the Special Instructions/Comments section if ordering online.

I also had never worked with a handplane. Last weekend I went to a fellow clubmember's shop, and spent several hours learning how to get a plane ready for use. You should get a couple of waterstones as well and a honing guide - can find them at Hartville as well. Make sure your guide will handle the width of the blade of the plane you get. Request their catalog if you are not in a hurry - worth it. Anyway, my first cut with my "conditioned" jointer plane on the edge resulted in a single shaving the length of the board, the width of the edge! Definitely glad I waited until I had someone show me what to do.

 

[grumpy]

the corrigated bottom is to help with friction. A candle on the bottom will help on a smooth bottom/ The block plane was a good selection if it's a first. You will always need a plane for the rougher side of things even if you get one of those hot shots. Also learn to lay them all on their side or on a small strip of wood to protect the blade. It's a shame to see so many beautiful planes setting on the blade when not in use. harry

 

[NCPete]

When resting a plane I leave mine on its side, but when it is retired for the day, it goes into the old (1920's) carpenters box, sitting square on the sole, with the blade retracted.

 

[NCPete]

There is an old issue of FWW with an article on planes that are (relatively) inexpensive copies of the old Stanley/Bailey lines. I will see if I can find it tonight. seems the Anant plane may have been relatively well regarded, but they all needed some tuning, and it was recommended that more than a few get replacement blades from the likes of Lie Nielson etc...

 

[mbb]

I believe the Indian factory which makes the Anant, Groz, and HF "Windsor Design" planes inherited Record Plane's tooling when it went under and continues to use the same on these planes. If you look closely at them, they appear to have identical designs to Stanley type 20's and beyond. I bought one of the "Windsor Design" planes from HF. It was actually fairly well put together with a hefty cast grey iron base and mahogany handles (which were clearly hand shaped and rough finished). While not of the quality of old Stanley (final finishing is not done, sole and blade are coarsely ground) or new LN/LV tools, for $10 it actually works rather well.

Mike

 

[fsdogwood]

The plane purchase was fine. It's just that there
could be better ways.
I would say, if you want to try out hand plane,
do either rconnell did, that found someone to
show him how to do it, with a decent plane.
Or you can head to woodnet HT forum, or PM
rarebear (or some other nice folks), ask for
a re-conditioned old Stanley, may not even have
to be a 11-17 type, any US made would work).
It will not cost too much than the Groz, but it'll
be ready to use and will give you a reference
what planes suppose to work.
I also have some HF Windsor blue planes, got
them at sale, thought that even the wooden knob
and handle would cost more than they ask.

 

[mbb]

Those guys (rarebear, WaltQ, Timberwolf) do have excellent stuff. I have been rebuilding/refinishing a bunch of planes since last summer for fun (post on Woodnet under login "sculpin"). Here's my latest junk-to-gem Stanley type 14 #4 1/2:

 

[fsdogwood]

Nice job.
I am still working with WD-40, + steel wool, +wax
with my planes.
What procedure did you follow?