I'm new to this site so bare with me please. I have one question

[RANDYR]

How do I edge glue 3/4 thick purpleheart to 3/4 thick maple and get a good bond? I'm using titebond III

 

[medicfirefighter2005]

I am know expert so someone chime in, but if it was me I would use biscuits to join them.

 

[ScottM]

Biscuits will help for sure. Make sure you get an even coat of glue on the entire surface being joined. A small roller will help. Clamp with even pressure long the entire surface and allow to sit over night. I like TB II myself.

 

[WoodWrangler]

I've got to take a different route ... forget the biscuits, just joint the edges and slap them together with a few clamps. The biscuits only make for more work and do nothing for the strength.

 

[toolferone]

I've got to take a different route ... forget the biscuits, just joint the edges and slap them together with a few clamps. The biscuits only make for more work and do nothing for the strength.

+1. No biscuits needed. Just a good smooth straight clean edge.

 

[RANDYR]

I like it so you telling me to rabbet the joints together.

 

[dozer]

Biscuits are for breakfast :rotflm: seriously just glue and clamp it should be fine.

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

I agree that biscuits don't provide any strength, but they do help with alignment.

 

[cpw]

I like it so you telling me to rabbet the joints together.

You could if you want. If you rabbet both pieces of stock and overlap them at the rabbet then you have a shiplap joint. It would increase the glue surface and you would be gluing face grain to face grain so it would be a bit stronger, but it's extra work that isn't necessary.

In an edge grain to edge grain joint the glue should be enough, even with a butt joint. A quality wood glue like Titebond is going to be stronger than the wood itself. In other words, once the glue is dried, if you put the joint under duress, generally the wood will break before the glue joint will fail.

Mechanical joints like biscuits, dowels, and splines are helpful if you are concerned about the joint shifting during glue up, but they are really only helpful for alignment, and perhaps in some special circumstances where you need extra glue surface.

Cheers,
Charles

 

[Bas]

I've glued up lots of purple heart to maple for end grain cutting boards. Always used Titebond II for that, but TB III should do just as well. Just make sure your edges are straight and then just glue and clamp. Use cauls if necessary to keep everything flat.

 

[Gotcha6]

Just ONE question??????:wsmile:

 

[SubGuy]

If you want to add more joint strength as well as help with alignment you could use a tongue and groove. They are easy enough to make with a bit set. I only use that joint for breadboard ends or places that would take a lot of pressure at the joint. Otherwise a simple straight rip, pass through the joiner and glue-up.

 

[cskipper]

Welcome! We love questions - please don't hesitate to ask. It looks like you have gotten some good advice, but if you are still unclear keep asking.

 

[RANDYR]

Thanks for everyones input. I believe I know what was wrong, my edges wasn't square enough.

 

[Pop Golden]

Hi Randy! Welcome to NC. Woodworkers. I use Titebond III, it is the newest version of Titebond and I would think be the better of the 3 basic glues. I don't know why? None of my fellow woodworkers here seem to like biscuits. They do increase joint strength. That's why the furniture industry has used them or years. More glue area = more glue area. In your case however they keep the joint level, but they don't keep the entire glue-up flat overall. For this use cauls. YES! Your edges must be stright & square. I don't know if purple heart is greasy. Some exotics are. If that is the problem, wipe the exotic wood's edge with acetone before glue.

Pop

 

[KenOfCary]

I'm gluing up a Purpleheart and Maple cutting board as we speak. Purpleheart is not greasy, just very hard. Harder and denser than Maple. Titebond II is water resistant, III is supposedly waterproof. III is darker and may show more if not completely removed from surfaces. II has always been sufficient for me as III seems to be a little overkill.

Either will work just fine though and if water is not an issue then original Titebond is totally fine as well.

- Ken.

 

[SGalley]

I use titebond II. How's the titebond III better? Just curious. And if you don't want to use glue, you could really complicate things and do a sliding dovetail

 

[SGalley]

Sorry for being a smart butt! Straight edges are the way to go as the other guys said. If you're like me, you have a jointer that's small and is not set up properly (don't know how to set it up and don't know if the one I have can be set so i dont mess with it) but What I do is find a straight edge and clamp it to the board I want to edge and use a straight bit with a guide bearing on my router to get clean edges. What I've learned is Make sure you Glue boards up before you cut if you're making some kind of table top or a larger surface. I hope this helps You. I've made many mistakes (wasted money on messing up wood and tools i never use) and am not an expert, but i would hate to see someone go through the same pain I did so you can pm me any time if you want to ask me a question.
Scott

 

[RANDYR]

Titebond III is dishwasher safe. That's what i was told.

 

[eyekode]

Titebond III is dishwasher safe. That's what i was told.

Maybe... But the wood isn't