Identify this wood

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clowman

*********
Clay Lowman
I was looking around for another idea on another clock. I found this particular clock here that I liked. I was wondering what kind of burl wood is on the top and bottoms? I have never done anything with burl anything. Not even sure where to get it or if it comes in solid wood or veneer type.

any clues?
 

cskipper

Moderator
Cathy
I e-maileld the site and asked (settle an argument I was having with my DH about what type of wood it was). I'll let you know if he answers.
 

cskipper

Moderator
Cathy
I e-mailed the guy and asked him what kind of wood was on the top and bottom of the clock. He wrote back that the clocks are made in Germany and he didnt know what kind of wood it was. Well, it was worth a try.
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
Lots of burls will look nice with cherry. If you are interested, I scored a great deal on some Eucalyptus Burl off ebay. I'll send you a sheet roughly 13" x 80", for just the cost of shipping or you can pick up free. I can shoot a picture of it on some speakers I made with just a shellac finish if you want to see what it looks like.


Steve D
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
Here are some pics of the theater I'm building and the Eucalyptus burl used on the speakers:

The screen and main speakers



Close up of left tower



Close up of burl


Clowman,

Let me know if you want a sheet and I'll hook you up.

Steve D
 

clowman

*********
Clay Lowman
That is beautiful. I reckon first. I have never worked with sheets. I assume it's a veener like substance? How do you apply it?
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
These sheets are raw veneer, unbacked. They just happen to be large and beautiful. :eusa_clap I applied it to the speaker cabinets that I built using a technique featured in FWW. The veneer is cut slightly oversized, and flattened. You apply Titebond II to both the veneer and the substrate. Let it cure until it hardens. Place the veneer over the substrate and iron it on with an iron set on medium high. Heat only enough to reactivate the glue. Overheating will cause the veneer to shrink and crack. It's best to practice a little to get the technique down before you go live on your hard work.

I have an article around here somewhere on the technique that a chemist at Franklin International (Titebond) sent to me. I'll see if I can dig it out.

Steve D
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Wow, that's a great idea. I've only used contact adhesive, with mixed results. How long do you let it dry??? Dave:)
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
You want to roll on a fairly heavy coating on each piece and let it dry until it turns that translucent yellow. It is essentially "dry" at that point but when the two pieces come together they will be a littly bit tacky. Not like contact cement but you do want to put it down where you want it because you risk cracking the veneer if you have to peel it free and move it.
 

cskipper

Moderator
Cathy
Your speakers are great! I've bought some veneer but haven't been brave enoughto work with it. It's been rolled for a while so may be unusable.
 

sapwood

New User
Roger
Steve,

Beautiful work. I love the striking contrast of the light burl and dark wood. Also a pretty nice home theater system. Wonder how that would look with my 27" TV? :rolf:

Sapwood
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
Thanks Sapwood, 27" is what I had before I went to this set up. Believe it or not, there is a noticeable difference 8-O

Cathy,

Unroll it and let it relax for a little while, the get some veneer softener and spray it down. Once you get it reasonable flat, sandwich it between two flat boards with packing paper or paper towels between the boards and the veneer to absorb the moisture and stack something heavy on top of the sandwich. Keep changing the paper out every once or twice a day until it is dry. Then store it between the boards until you are ready to use it.

Steve D
 

cskipper

Moderator
Cathy
Thanks for that info. I was wondering what to do with it. Where do I find veneer softening spray?
 
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