I really should know better, BUT?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
I am currently putting together a couple of very simple wall cabinets using 3/4" plywood and a poplar face frame.

I have read repeatedly, that you can use biscuits to help with the alignment of the FF to the carcass. Now, my question! If you leave the FF about 1/16" proud of the carcass sides, how can you accurately cut the slot for the biscuit in the FF? I would think that it would be out of alignment? (Or. Did I leave the FF too proud?:BangHead:) I don't see any issues with cutting the biscuit slots in the carcass as long as I register to the outside edges of top, bottom and sides.

Hope I have made some sense:embaresse.

(I have been working on getting these 2 cabinets done in preparation for another pair. Building for a local church. Never thought that building "boxes" would get so old!!!!:cry_smile)

Can someone just :slap: me?

TIA

Wayne
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Add a 1/16th shim to either the bottom or the fence of the biscuit jointer. That will allow you to offset the alignment easily.
I find it easiest to register the bottom of the plate for cutting the slots. In your case to achieve the results, cut the slots on the carcass with the plate on 1/16th" shim on a table, and then cut the slots in the mating piece without the shim, still referencing off the table. This will only work if you are planning you FF to be flush with the inside of the carcass.
Another way is to use the same 1/16th" shim and use the fence for reference. Slot your carcass using the shim, and then slot your edging without it.

I hope I haven't got it all backwards...it is very easy to do with a BJ setting :eusa_doh::eusa_doh::eusa_doh: DAMHIKT

Dave:)
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
What Dave said. When I cut my slots, I use a piece of sandpaper to give one board a slight offset. Imagine a butt joint - you want the "|" in the "L" to stand slightly proud of the "_", not the other way around (less sanding).

Video -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Jl-PjJY14U

For a larger offset, such as 1/16, any kind of shim will do. Just make sure you either reference off the fence, or the bottom of the table, but not both.
 

skysharks

New User
John Macmaster
Both Dave and Bas are right on. Bas I liked the video good find.
Wayne you mentioned that these were wall cabinets, and that you are mounting FF to the carcass.
The first thing that popped into my head was 3/16 - 1/4 inch which is standard for kitchen wall cabinets, that are not made by the European standard.
Hope I got this right.

MAC
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Thanks Dave and Bas!

I guess what was throwing me (late last nite) was that I noticed that the plywood had a slight bow in it on the sides. So. There was a 1/16" reveal between the carcass and outside edge of the FF at the top and bottom; but only about a 1/32" in the middles. - not a consistent 1/16" reveal, top to bottom.:icon_scra Then it dawned on me after reading your responses, that my real issue is the bowed plywood.:widea:

I will use the shim idea to pull/push the bow out of plywood with the biscuit slots in the FF.

Do I hate using plywood!!!!!???

Both Dave and Bas are right on. Bas I liked the video good find.
Wayne you mentioned that these were wall cabinets, and that you are mounting FF to the carcass.
The first thing that popped into my head was 3/16 - 1/4 inch which is standard for kitchen wall cabinets, that are not made by the European standard.
Hope I got this right.

MAC

Mac,

Are referring to a face frame overlay/reveal of 3/16" - 1/4" or FF thickness? Not sure that I am following you. BUT, I have only had 2 cups of java so far this A.M..


Thanks a bunch, guys!

Wayne
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
my real issue is the bowed plywood.
Ugh. I feel your pain. I had the same problem, but the bow was more like 1/8". I had to glue the biscuits in to fill the holes, trimmed them with the table saw, then cut new slots. I now clamp everything to the table. It's a pain to move the clamps around as you're making the slots, but it's better than fixing stuff afterwards.

BTW, the big 10" handscrews are really good for this. They go on sale at HF now and then.

Good to hear you figured things out!
 

skysharks

New User
John Macmaster
Wayne the reveal I am talking about is on the sides on the cabinet. between the face frame (FF) edge and the plywood sides.(carcass/box).
For standard cabinets this reveal is 3/16 - 1/4 inch .
One European Cabinets/frameless there is no reveal. Of course with framless there is no FF.
But I take it that the cabinets that you are making you are mounting your (FF) face frame to the cabinet (plywood box) with no reveal as in flush to the outside edge????
Hope I'm saying this right:rolf:

MAC
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Wayne the reveal I am talking about is on the sides on the cabinet. between the face frame (FF) edge and the plywood sides.(carcass/box).
For standard cabinets this reveal is 3/16 - 1/4 inch .
One European Cabinets/frameless there is no reveal. Of course with framless there is no FF.
But I take it that the cabinets that you are making you are mounting your (FF) face frame to the cabinet (plywood box) with no reveal as in flush to the outside edge????
Hope I'm saying this right:rolf:

MAC

Awe. Now I getcha ya!! Each of these cabinets will be wall mounted and standalone in four different rooms. They wanted the FF flush with the cab sides.

Thanks Mac. I'll have to keep this reveal in mind next time. Sure would simplify alignment issues like this one!:thumbs_up

Wayne
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top