Hi all,
If you're like me you hate brush marks too. Of course, spraying is one way around the problem but my instruments are all finished with varnish and spraying varnish is no fun. Brushing varnish is fine but I always end up sanding just to eliminate brush marks. A couple of weeks ago I was in the local Borg and I saw a new product (new to me, at least) on the shelves - the "Whizz Roller System". It consists of a small 4" high density foam roller and a handle. The package said it was for 'doors and cabinets'. It was very inexpensive so I thought I would give it a try on the lid and bench I'm working on. First up was painting. I use Ronan Japan colors for my paint - they're very intense and dry dead flat. I rolled on the first coat and was quite pleased with the result. The foam roller leaves no lap marks and the paint went on with just a slight bumpiness that you would expect from any roller. After the second coat, I applied my tape and did the shadow lines that this design calls for. Then it was time for varnish. I used Pratt&Lambert #38 satin varnish right out of the can - no thinning. I rolled on a coat - pulled up a chair and watched the varnish dry (I need to get a life). The varnish went on very smoothly but with thousands of tiny bubbles. I resisted the urge to tip them off and went to bed instead. The next morning I went into the shop to see how the varnish had dried. I saw......nothing! No bubbles, no lap marks, of course no brush marks..... nothing but a nice even coat of varnish.
I am sold on this product. Here's a picture of the bench lid with only one coat of varnish on it.
If you're like me you hate brush marks too. Of course, spraying is one way around the problem but my instruments are all finished with varnish and spraying varnish is no fun. Brushing varnish is fine but I always end up sanding just to eliminate brush marks. A couple of weeks ago I was in the local Borg and I saw a new product (new to me, at least) on the shelves - the "Whizz Roller System". It consists of a small 4" high density foam roller and a handle. The package said it was for 'doors and cabinets'. It was very inexpensive so I thought I would give it a try on the lid and bench I'm working on. First up was painting. I use Ronan Japan colors for my paint - they're very intense and dry dead flat. I rolled on the first coat and was quite pleased with the result. The foam roller leaves no lap marks and the paint went on with just a slight bumpiness that you would expect from any roller. After the second coat, I applied my tape and did the shadow lines that this design calls for. Then it was time for varnish. I used Pratt&Lambert #38 satin varnish right out of the can - no thinning. I rolled on a coat - pulled up a chair and watched the varnish dry (I need to get a life). The varnish went on very smoothly but with thousands of tiny bubbles. I resisted the urge to tip them off and went to bed instead. The next morning I went into the shop to see how the varnish had dried. I saw......nothing! No bubbles, no lap marks, of course no brush marks..... nothing but a nice even coat of varnish.
I am sold on this product. Here's a picture of the bench lid with only one coat of varnish on it.
I'm guessing two or three coats with a light sanding between coats will be more than enough. If so, the Whizz rollers will be a big time saver for me. If you have something large, like a table top etc. you might want to give it a try. Like any other foam, it's useless for shellac and lacquer, but if you're using varnish (or poly) it might be just the ticket for eliminating brush marks. Just make sure the roller package says "for doors and cabinets".
Ernie
Ernie
