HVLP suggestions for painting projects

[kommon_sense]

So talked the wife into letting me get an hvlp. I got the fuji semi-pro2 which comes with a 1.3mm needle and added the 1.5mm needle.

First question isn't quite woodworking, but I have to paint some ikea furniture (dresser & chest of drawers) that isn't assembled yet. I'm a little limited on space. Any suggestions in if it would be easier to paint before assembly, or assemble and paint carcass and drawers?


Second question is how to prevent orange peel. I painted a small nightstand over the weekend. I sanded it smooth and applied a coat of zinsser BIN shellac-based primer using 1.5mm needle. I did not thin the BIN, and had a little blotching. Did a light sand with 220 after the primer.

I then used Sherwin Williams proclassic w/1.5mm needle. Mixed 10oz paint with 1oz floetrol and 1oz water. It was still very thick in the viscosity cup, but everything that I read said not to thin more than 10-15%, so I was worried about adding more water. I applied 3 coats. I had to keep a tight beam on the fan control to avoid blotching. This made it a little tedious to get good coverage. I ended up adding more water betwen coats. Eyeballed it, so not sure exactly how much.

The final project had good coverage, but in the right light, you can see some orange peel. Everything that I've read said orange peel happens when paint is too thick. Do I need a larger needle for this stuff? Do I need to thin more?

Thanks for any input.

 

[Phil S]

Fuji offers a 2.0 tip for that system. It will help. Practice on some scrap after you get it. There is a big difference from 1.5 to 2.0

 

[Bill Clemmons]

I use a conventional HVLP sprayer which runs off my air compressor, but the principles are the same. I added a couple of comments below, in red.

So talked the wife into letting me get an hvlp. I got the fuji semi-pro2 which comes with a 1.3mm needle and added the 1.5mm needle.

First question isn't quite woodworking, but I have to paint some ikea furniture (dresser & chest of drawers) that isn't assembled yet. I'm a little limited on space. Any suggestions in if it would be easier to paint before assembly, or assemble and paint carcass and drawers? Assemble first, then paint. Only part of the drawers that gets painted is the front. Use clear shellac on the drawer box, inside and out.


Second question is how to prevent orange peel. I painted a small nightstand over the weekend. I sanded it smooth and applied a coat of zinsser BIN shellac-based primer using 1.5mm needle. I did not thin the BIN, and had a little blotching. Did a light sand with 220 after the primer. I always thin the BIN primer w/ denatured alcohol (about 20-25% alcohol). It flows much better through my 1.4 nozzle.

I then used Sherwin Williams proclassic w/1.5mm needle. Mixed 10oz paint with 1oz floetrol and 1oz water. It was still very thick in the viscosity cup, but everything that I read said not to thin more than 10-15%, so I was worried about adding more water. I applied 3 coats. I had to keep a tight beam on the fan control to avoid blotching. This made it a little tedious to get good coverage. I ended up adding more water betwen coats. Eyeballed it, so not sure exactly how much. As Phil pointed out, a 2.0 nozzle works much better for paint. I would have probably added a little more water, say 15-20%. I use distilled water rather than straight tap water. Don't know if it makes a difference.

The final project had good coverage, but in the right light, you can see some orange peel. Everything that I've read said orange peel happens when paint is too thick. Do I need a larger needle for this stuff? Do I need to thin more?

Thanks for any input.

 

[kommon_sense]

Thanks for the feedback. I've ordered the 2.0mm tip and already have some denatured alcohol. So I will be giving it another go in probably the next week or so.

I've read that if you have good tap water, then no need for distilled, but I'm still very new at all of this.

 

[golfdad]

Tavaris Pro Classic is the best. But with an HVLP it needs to be thinned. this is what I use....16oz paint..1.5 oz of Floetrol...5oz of water...spray with a 2.0 needle

 

[Bill Clemmons]

I've read that if you have good tap water, then no need for distilled, but I'm still very new at all of this.

You're probably right. I have well water and it sometimes has some sediment in it. I could probably use bottled water, but I bought a gallon of distilled water, so that's what I use.

 

[Jeff]

I've read that if you have good tap water, then no need for distilled, but I'm still very new at all of this.

Distilled water has no mineral content (i.e., good for a steam iron because it leaves no whitish, scaly residue), it's cheap, and eliminates minerals from your HVLP equation. Tap water (city or from a well) will contain minerals.

I too don't know if that makes a difference for your application.

 

[golfdad]

Never thought of that....