Homemade wax for many uses.

[Jeff]

Beeswax & carnauba wax mixtures are easy to make and easy to work with.

1. Solvents. Turpentine Pure Gum Spirits has a pleasant piney odor. Citrus solvent (d-limonene) is made from orange/lemon peels and has that obvious citrus odor which is also nice. Be safe-both are flammable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5-yIx2rJkQ

http://www.wwch.org/technique/finishes/finwaxform.htm

 

[Howard Acheson]

What is "better" about this formulation than store bought products like Johnson Wax, Minwax or Trewax? I've used all three over the years and don't recall one being any better than the other. The only homebrew I use is one for use on cutting boards.

 

[arcwick08]

Turpentine and an open flame - what could go wrong!

I've made a beeswax/mineral oil/coconut oil mixture in the past. Use it for cutting boards, kitchen turnings and lip balm. I like this mix as it's 150% food safe. It will obviously not flash off the way a thinner-based mix will though.

 

[Jeff]

What is "better" about this formulation than store bought products like Johnson Wax, Minwax or Trewax?

Perhaps nothing, but it's an option to consider. Some members have asked about homemade wax mixtures in this related thread.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54972&page=2&p=503956

It was this Trewax product. http://trewax.beaumontproducts.com/f...ewax-paste-wax

However, I have raw carnauba and was thinking of trying to mix up my own blend. A Furniture restoration book I just got from the library has several projects related to the use of was in furniture finishing.

 

[Gofor]

I bought a couple pounds of raw beeswax (still had a few bees, wings, etc) from a local beekeeper that uses a solar kiln to render it out of the frames when he collects his honey. Using the double boiler technique on a sealed hot plate, I melted it and then strained it through some old sweat-pants material, and then placed the container in a small crock-pot (cost $12 at Walmart IIRC) to let it further settle and purify. Some I let harden, but I took one container and mixed in about 1/3 by volume mineral oil. It stays soft for rubbing into cutting boards, etc, and makes a nice finish. For the cutting boards and biscuit trays, I also rub the harder beeswax on the surface and then buff.

I know some decry the use of mineral oil (I use the pharmacy grade laxative stuff), but I have never had any hint of it contaminating any food, and with the rubbed on beeswax top caot, it seals it in very well. That said, I see no reason one could not mix in walnut oil, etc, to use for the same purpose.

The bottom line is that oil is the only "solvent" needed to give you a paste consistency to the bees wax.

I haven't done any experimenting with other waxes, such as carnuba,.

Go

I used the sweat-pant material as a strainer based on the advice of the bee-keeper, who has been purifyng bees wax for years.

 

[Jeff]

Turpentine and an open flame - what could go wrong!

It can be done safely over an open flame with one pan used as a double boiler. Outdoors only.

1. Heat the water to boiling and remove it from the open flame. Add the wax/solvent container and stir to dissolve.

2. Reheat and repeat as needed until the wax solution is clear (a second pan of boiling water makes this cycling much faster).

 

[Jeff]

Ok. A few points for clarification.

1. Beeswax, carnauba wax, and citrus solvent are food safe. All finishes are food safe when cured but some folks are concerned about that whether it's used on furniture or eating utensils.

2. The mix can be used on cutting boards, salad bowls, spoons, etc.

This is white beeswax and carnauba wax (4 oz : 1 oz) with citrus solvent in a double boiler pan.

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Melted for a clear mix

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...then cooled.

If it's too thick remelt it and add more solvent.











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