Home-made zero-clearance inserts for TS

[RandyJ]

Another newbie question for the brain-trust! I thought I'd try to make my own ZCI for my 10" Delta X5. I got the tip from Michael Gardner's reply to another question on inserts. Thanks Michael:icon_thum !
So, I bought a cutting board at Walmart (Poly) but when I cut it, there was a bow in the insert. I don't know if the heat from the BS caused it or if it was under stress before the cut. I'm wondering if I bought the right thing:eusa_doh: . Has anyone run into this before?
Also, while trying to lower the blade to cut the slot, I noticed the blade won't go down far enough to allow the insert to sit on the four leveling tabs. The top of the blade is about 1/8" above the tabs. Is there something wrong with my TS? If not, how are you supposed to cut the slot without having the insert shoot out when you turn the saw on? No, I didn't do it, I was too chicken:saw:
Thanks for any assistance on this,
Randy

 

[NCPete]

run a piece of wood across the ZCI, and clamp it firmly in place, before turning on the saw. don't know if you had the right material or not, Michael may chime in.

 

[DaveO]

I had a similar clearance problem when I made some ZCI for a Craftsman cheapo TS. I took a dado stack and mounted it first (much smaller blade dia) and used it to cut enough of a recess to allow the insert to sit flush with the 10" blade mounted and then raised it on thru.
I can't help you with the bowing problem, I've only made ZCIs out of ply, melamine and Corian.
HTH, Dave

 

[erasmussen]

Dont clamp it on so that the blade cannot turn (tight aganist the blade).
you will not be able to start the saw, and will kick out the circutbreaker:eusa_hand
the blade must be spinning when you raise it up to cut the insert

 

[NCPete]

thank you Earl, my oversight.

 

[RandyJ]

Thanks everyone....so, it's normal for the top of the blade to be above the leveling tabs??
Randy

 

[McRabbet]

Randy,

Most table saws will have their normal size blade rise high enough that they will strike a shop-built Zero Clearance Insert (ZCI). That is why the stock insert is usually recessed and ZCI's you buy for the saw have a cutout partway through the stock they are made from. DaveO's suggestion is the safest technique -- use a smaller saw blade or the outside blade for a dado set with the same kerf thickness as your main blade to start the cut through. It is very important to be sure the ZCI is clamped down before the blade is raised through it. BTW, you can make special ZCI's for your Dado unit, for thin kerf blades or for miter cuts. Whatever you do, saw safely! :saw:

Rob

 

[michaelgarner]

PappyJ,
Sorry bro,,school school school,,anyhow,,if it has a bow no prob, just set up a belt sander and keep it flat. If you trust yourself you can do it on the saw after its mounted,,(be super carefull) DaveO is right on the money, use a small blade to make the initial cut and your golden. If you dont have one get a cheep router bit and make a recess in the bottom, Let me know how it turns out bro. be blessed

 

[yellofins]

What thickness are most of the ZC inserts?
I have plastic materials available (scraps from production).
If they are the the right thickness I can get some HDPE and Acrylic to anyone interested in experimenting.
Free materials available if they work.......
I have planned on making blanks using my pattern router bit, but it's still on my TODO list.
ron

 

[Gofor]

I have a Ridgid TS3650. The insert is 1/2" thick. I always start my new ones for a 10" blade with a blade from my circular saw (dado and molding blades are smaller diameter so there is plenty of clearance) Some people use a router to cut a recess on the bottom side. The top surface is what is important, as it must be close to the blade to prevent tearout. I also usually clamp my fence down over the insert (making sure that the blade will clear when thru), to hold the insert in the slot.
Have not tried plastic yet, altho I intend to: I would try bringing the blade up slowly and backing off a bit after every 1/4 turn or so to let it cool if heat is warping it.
Also, don't forget to put some sort of tab in the back to secure the insert for use. If the insert is thick enough, some people just run a screw into the back edge. I leave a tab when running the router to shape it by only cutting half way thru on the first cut and leaving the tab when cutting the second time at full depth (I use the original stock insert for a template).
Hope this helps:lol:
P.S. Another material I have heard that works good is scrap corian from a cabinet shop (the pieces they cut out for sink installation) if it is available to you.

 

[RandyJ]

Thanks for all the tips everyone. The plastic cutting board I bought from Wally world is 13/32" thick. There were only two types there and both were the same thickness. I will try the smaller blade to start the kerf and try the belt sander to flatten the insert.
Thanks again for sharing all those brain cells:icon_thum
Randy

 

[Canuck]

If you do not have a smaller blade to use for the initial kerf cut, would this work! Or be just be plain too dangerous?:eusa_naug (Found this reference out there on another site.)

"If you were to try to make the kerf cut in the insert now you would likely find out that your blade does not lower enough to fully seat the ZCI. That problem is easily remedied.

Back off your leveling screws in your OEM insert and place it in the saw. You will now notice that the OEM insert has lowered enough to provide a recess for your ZCI blank (pic left). Place the ZCI blank onto the recess and it should be securely registered for position. Clamp it in place and your ready to make the initial kerf cut. "

I recently found a ZCI at MLCS for my Rigid TS2400, but haven't installed it yet. Was just wondering if this would be an alternative to using a smaller blade.

Thanks,

Wayne​

 

[junquecol]

I use 1/2" MDF for ZC inserts. A 4X8 (49"X97") from Lowes will make 84 of them for about fifteen bucks. That is about 19 cents each-pretty cheap. Blade clearance is a problem, so if I was going to make more than one, I would make a jig to guide plunge router to route clearance notch in back. I add 10-24 set screws for leveling and one at front and rear for latteral and fore and aft adjustment. The two for latteral adjustment are located in the rounded portion, about at the 45 degree from sides.

 

[frigator]

When my zero clearance insert gets widened out, I simply take it out, put a piece of tape of the top, and fill the insert with epoxy mixed with some microfibers Then whamo, you got a fresh new insert to cut through.