I need help deciding which router bit set to order for stile and rails to apply glass in a set of doors. I am on line looking at mlcswoodworking.com. I need an opinion on a choice between a stack rail and stile or reversible rail and stile assembly for glass doors. I ordered the stack rail and stile #107 8871. 8861 is the other set. I think both will work but I would like some advice before it gets shipped monday morning. Thanks Lorraine
Help with choice of router bit
- Thread starter lwhughes149
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M
McRabbet
Lorraine, my personal preference is the 8848 Minature Matched R&S Set for Glass Doors because they produce smaller, more delicate mullions that the 8861/8871 style. Notice the depth of cut on the 8861/8871 is 3/8" -- when you double this and add 3/8" to 1/2" of solid wood, the mullion is 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" wide; the 8848 cuts only half as deep, so the mullions can be 3/4" wide, which in my opinion looks better for most doors. Be sure to download the PDF file that gives guidance on how to use these bits.
I recently posted a description with pictures of how I used these bits to make eight four pane doors for a commissioned project -- if you have any questions, don't hesitate to holler for guidance. Hope this helps.
I recently posted a description with pictures of how I used these bits to make eight four pane doors for a commissioned project -- if you have any questions, don't hesitate to holler for guidance. Hope this helps.
OK. You asked what I think. If you are making a number of doors, I would probably go with the 8861 since you are applying glass to the door . The other option is the 8845 if you want to hide the glass with retaining strips. With the 8871, you will have to use a 3/8 rabbeting bit on the back side to grove out for the glass. IF YOU ARE MAKING 1 OR 2 DOORS THIS WOULD PROBABLY WORK GREAT. Then you would still have the bits available to use on standard rail and stile doors.
Which ever bit you use, it will make it easier on the router if you pre-cut the routed edge on your table saw. This way you are removing some of the wood that the router won't have to.
Be sure to check out the PDF instructions MLCS has available on the website.
Bob
Rob, I appreciate the help I received from you and Bob. Bob I had ordered the set you preferred, however, I changed the order for the 8844 which Rob mentioned. I would like the smaller detail. Once again the guys from the site have come through for me. I have never made decorative doors, this will be a first so plan to hear from me again. Thanks to both of you. Lorraine:3dblob3:
M
McRabbet
Lorraine sent me a PM asking about the coping sled I use -- for the benefit of everyone, here is what I answered:
It is the MLCS Coping Safety Super Sled #9497, seen on this link page for about $35. It does not have a miter runner on the bottom as one normally uses it against the fence -- If you look at the picture, you'll see that you will cut into the Black block behind the work piece if you run the sled against the fence when making a cut like the one they show. I never run it directly against the fence, but instead, I clamp a block the same thickness as my R&S stock to the infeed side back far enough to allow the extended end of the work piece to hit the RT fence short of the bit, like this:
The sled extends back far enought to keep the cope cuts like this firmly against the fence -- you can add a backer piece behind the work piece to minimize tearout. For my long cuts on the panel side of the rails and stiles, I use finger boards on both the infeed and outfeed sides of the fence, like this:
(Note -- I use the same minature glass door bits for the rails and stiles on the glass doors as well as the mullions so the cuts match).
The other pictures in my Dining Room Commission Album illustrate the cope cuts for the mullions [DR-07], the carrier strip used to support a mullion during the cut along the second side, backed away [DR-08] and in place [DR-09, DR-10] for a cope cut. The carrier strip is really used for the lengthwise cuts with the other bit and I didn't take a picture of it. Notice it has the cope bit cut the full length of a wider piece the same thickness of your R&S and mullion stock. Mullions are usually 3/4" x 3/4" stock and I first cut one side with the "panel" bit just like the inside of the door rails and stiles, using a push stick and holding the strip down with finger boards. I then put this cut side into the cut in the carrier board (they mesh perfectly) and make the same pass on the other side, holding the piece down again with finger boards and using a push stick. The carrier fixture keeps the mullion from twisting away from or toward the router bit. You'll notice in picture DR-13 that one mullion crosses the full door and the shorter ones meet neatly against it in the center. Holler if you need more details.
It is the MLCS Coping Safety Super Sled #9497, seen on this link page for about $35. It does not have a miter runner on the bottom as one normally uses it against the fence -- If you look at the picture, you'll see that you will cut into the Black block behind the work piece if you run the sled against the fence when making a cut like the one they show. I never run it directly against the fence, but instead, I clamp a block the same thickness as my R&S stock to the infeed side back far enough to allow the extended end of the work piece to hit the RT fence short of the bit, like this:
The sled extends back far enought to keep the cope cuts like this firmly against the fence -- you can add a backer piece behind the work piece to minimize tearout. For my long cuts on the panel side of the rails and stiles, I use finger boards on both the infeed and outfeed sides of the fence, like this:
(Note -- I use the same minature glass door bits for the rails and stiles on the glass doors as well as the mullions so the cuts match).
The other pictures in my Dining Room Commission Album illustrate the cope cuts for the mullions [DR-07], the carrier strip used to support a mullion during the cut along the second side, backed away [DR-08] and in place [DR-09, DR-10] for a cope cut. The carrier strip is really used for the lengthwise cuts with the other bit and I didn't take a picture of it. Notice it has the cope bit cut the full length of a wider piece the same thickness of your R&S and mullion stock. Mullions are usually 3/4" x 3/4" stock and I first cut one side with the "panel" bit just like the inside of the door rails and stiles, using a push stick and holding the strip down with finger boards. I then put this cut side into the cut in the carrier board (they mesh perfectly) and make the same pass on the other side, holding the piece down again with finger boards and using a push stick. The carrier fixture keeps the mullion from twisting away from or toward the router bit. You'll notice in picture DR-13 that one mullion crosses the full door and the shorter ones meet neatly against it in the center. Holler if you need more details.
I like stacked sets even though I do not like the extra cutter spinning around when I am doing the stick cut. I use a homemade sled made of 1/2 baltic birch plywood. That makes the height adjustment between the cope and stick minor. I like not having to switch bits or even do much of a change in height (my router table has a home-made lift.
Jim
Jim
Jim, I made a sled when I was making the cabinet doors for my kitchen but it didn't have an attachment to hold the wood securely but the cabinets came out fine. I debated over which set of bits to purchase and took Rob's advice and went with the smaller stile and rail bit set. I also ordered the sled that holds the wood against the router fence. I hope both items will come this coming week. Anxious to get started. Thanks for your thoughts. Will post as I come along. Lorraine
Ok, I am ready to finish the display cabinet doors. My minature stile and rail bits are here as well as the sled with the clamp to hold the pieces in place. Question, going back to the cabinet in Woodsmith No. 78. I expect I would toss out the measurements given for the cabinet and measure my opening and go from there as I did with my kitchen cabinet doors. Does anyone know where I can find a printed version for instructions to the minature stile and rail set-up? Lorraine
Rob, I just found the directions you provided for me. Lorraine
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