Has anyone tried this? Curious as to comments good or bad.

[mshel]

 

[mshel]

I don't think anything could be better than the blade you sharpened for the block plane I bought from you. That is one shaving blade!

Glad you like it Mike. I just honed it on my Tormek. I have had the itch to try the scary sharpe method and was wondering if anyone had used this jig. The tormek does a good job but I am thinking that there is another level of sharpness I haven't experience yet and would like to get there.

Mike

 

[DaveO]

I have not tried that jig but I have read that it is a great up-grade from the older version and one of the best sharpening jigs available.
Check out this thread about it: http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=2448111&page=2&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=
Dave

 

[Tarhead]

Mike,
I have it and it works very well with my scary sharp (tm) setup. Much easier to square the blade to the base, consistent positioning for bevel angles and much more substantial than the others I have tried. You can really get some weight on it.

Only complaint (very minor whine) is that finger-tight is not tight enough to make sure that the blade holder is firmly tightened down. I end up using one of those nubby rubber jar opener pads to get the brass nuts tight. The blade will move if you're not careful.
Mark

 

[woodguy1975]

Glad you like it Mike. I just honed it on my Tormek. I have had the itch to try the scary sharpe method and was wondering if anyone had used this jig. The tormek does a good job but I am thinking that there is another level of sharpness I haven't experience yet and would like to get there.

Mike

There is another level of sharpeness once you learn to use the honing wheel on the tormek properly. I challenge any method out there against that honing wheel for a sharp edge. I used to use the grinding wheel and think that was all there was until I learned to use the honing wheel. I hone 10 or even 20 times before sharpening. The only time I grind is when I get a nick.

Good Luck,

John

 

[sapwood]

Mike, I have it and like it. My sharpening skills are limited, but I use this honing guide, flat surface (granite), and wet/dry sandpaper (scarysharp) to get pretty good results. As Mark suggested, it holds the blade square (which was a problem with the "generic" jig) and provides accurate "repeatability" via the angle adjuster. My biggest problem to date has been forgetting to check the position of the "secondary bevel" adjustment everytime.

And thanks Mark for the tip on tightening the brass knob :icon_thum

Sapwood

 

[MLB3164]

I have both the Tormek and the Veritas jig. I use the Tormek to set the angle then the Veritas jig to hone on a 4000/8000 Norton waterstone. I have been sold on the waterstones even though they are a bit messy. I second what Tarhead said about the jig, you need to make sure you have the chisel or iron firmly tightened down. This MkII jig is a great improvement over the original jig. Hope this helps.

Marty

 

[mshel]

There is another level of sharpeness once you learn to use the honing wheel on the tormek properly. I challenge any method out there against that honing wheel for a sharp edge. I used to use the grinding wheel and think that was all there was until I learned to use the honing wheel. I hone 10 or even 20 times before sharpening. The only time I grind is when I get a nick.

Good Luck,

John

John,

I too use the honing wheel and maybe incorrectly. I leave the chisel / plane blade in the jig after grinding and move it to the honing wheel. I use the tormek honing cream and make sure the angle is set correctly. Don't get me wrong, the blades will shave hair but I still feel they could be even sharper. Maybe I need some insite as to what exactly sharp is.

Any tips / tricks?

MIke

 

[Jonz]

I think as honing jigs go that one is the best on the market by leaps and bounds. It looks a bit complicated at first with all the numbers and knobs but once you have it in your hand and put a chisel or blade in and out a few times it is really easy and quick to slap one in and start honing, and honing on the exact bevel you want and square to the side. I have the same problem as Sapwood though, I often forget to check the secondary bevel knob.

Anytime I need to grind I use the Tormek, and usually freehand hone chisels, but I use the Veritas jig to hone plane blades as I suck at freehanding them.

 

[woodguy1975]

John,

I too use the honing wheel and maybe incorrectly. I leave the chisel / plane blade in the jig after grinding and move it to the honing wheel. I use the tormek honing cream and make sure the angle is set correctly. Don't get me wrong, the blades will shave hair but I still feel they could be even sharper. Maybe I need some insite as to what exactly sharp is.

Any tips / tricks?

MIke

The true test of sharpness is to use your finger nail. If it grabs and takes a small shaving instead of sliding on your nail it is sharp.

I don't use the jig on the honing wheel. I simply do it freehand starting with the blade on the wheel, but not the bevel and then raise it up to engage the bevel. Don't forget to take the burr off on the backside after honing the bevel.

John

 

[wapitiscat]

I have the MKII and like it, although I've haven't used it a whole lot. My next purchase will be the Camber Roller Guide to make it easier to put a slight radius on the ol' smoother blade.

Todd