Has Anyone Seen Veneered MDF?

[Barry W]

I ran across this video (https://youtu.be/VGQNNM0TVdo) in which the builder is using veneered MDF. Many would probably poo-poo the use of a product such as this. However, I think it would be easy to work with and produce quick results. Thanks to all.

 

[ehpoole]

Actually MDF makes for a very good veneer substrate as it is dimensionally stable and the veneer only adds to its strength if both faces are veneered. But veneered MDF is not especially unusual if you visit some of the larger wood product distributors.

But working with MDF is no sin in woodworking and it has a nunber of desirable properties as well. Not every project needs to be fine heirloom quality furniture to qualify as woodworking. If you wish to use screws to secure your MDF sections then look into obtaining Confirmat screws and the stepped drill bit that goes with them -- they are essentially engineered steel dowels that thread in with very coarse threads and are specifically engineered for MDF carcass assembly.

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

I know of more than one piece that Al Spicer has made where he used MDF. His pieces are incredible, definitely heirloom quality. Yes, MDF in an heirloom quality piece, that is what I said. It even sounds like blasphemy to me. I really don't like MDF, but like Ethan said, it is supposed to be one of the best veneer substrates out there.

Here is a thread with one of Al's pieces: https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60659

 

[Berta]

I know that some of the cabinet door blanks that I saw working ar kraftMaid used veneered MDF especially for its flat paneled shaker style.

 

[Phil S]

The millwork companies I use will not use wood veneer over plywood, no matter what the grade. They say the grain pattern in the plywood will eventually telegraph thru. Instead they use a plywood that has MDF as the outside ply on both sides.

 

[BSevier]

So, I understand how veneer would adhere well to the top and bottom of the MDF, but what is the best way to handle edges? Can you just attach veneer straight to the edge of the MDF? Or should you first edge with a hardwood?

 

[ehpoole]

So, I understand how veneer would adhere well to the top and bottom of the MDF, but what is the best way to handle edges? Can you just attach veneer straight to the edge of the MDF? Or should you first edge with a hardwood?

You can glue veneer directly to the MDF edge but it will not have the same holding power if subject to a lot of abuse (such as if a well used desk or kitchen/bath counter) and chamfering or rounding the edges is not especially practical unless using thicker veneers. The issue is similar to edge banded particle board veneers commonly used on less expensive countertops -- after awhile the areas of high use/abuse tend to start separating and pulling away since the cut edges of MDF are not smooth tempered surfaces like the main faces are.

The best strategy is to attach a solid wood edge band to the exposed edges, with the best strategies being a tongue-in-groove edge piece (the edge piece then has a "T" shape) or a variation using a deep triangular wedge and matching deep V grooving in the MDF (the V groove simply increases the glue surface area considerably and helps to increase the joint strength). That said, most will get by well enough just thoroughly gluing a simple flat strip of solid wood and then clamping securely along the width (use clamping cauls if necessary to get even clamp pressure over the full width) unless the edge is likely to be subjected to high levels of abuse, in which case you may wish to try either of the methods mentioned in this paragraph's opening sentence.

So long as your chosen solid hardwood edging is of the same species as the veneer you generally do not need to veneer the solid edging stock unless you are trying to match some very specific grain pattern only possible with the veneer.

 

[KenOfCary]

I have purchased 1/4" Cherry and Maple plywood from the Hardwood Store that has an MDF core. It works very well for cabinet backs, etc. I usually put the back in a rabbit so the edges aren't an issue. It makes good drawer bottoms also which are inserted into a dado. No worries about wood movement.

 

[red]

It's great stuff to work with but the one drawback is the weight. It adds up quickly if you're doing a sizable piece. I have used it many times even for pieces that were used in woodworking publications.

Red

 

[JimD]

I built a new kitchen island using panels of 1/4 cherry veneer mdf. I didn't realize it was MDF when I bought it but it didn't matter. I like the veneer. I think the supplier had a rack where they had mixed mdf core and plywood core. Edges were contained in the groove of the rails and stiles which were solid cherry. I don't like mdf dust but I was using my shop vac/cyclone setup so it wasn't noticable. As long as you do not need much strength, deal with the dust, and can address the edges, mdf is fine.