Harpsichord Project Part 4 - The Case (Bentside)

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ErnieM

Ernie
Corporate Member
Hi all,

It’s finally time to start building the harpsichord case. The diagram shown below labels five of the six parts that make up the shell of the instrument. This diagram, which I did using Sketchup, is not the instrument we are building but the names of the case parts are the same. The Spine is made of poplar and will be 8 ¾” high by 71 5/16” long and is the left side of the case. The cheek is 8 ¾” high by 22 31/32” long and is the right-front side of the case. The tail is the rear side of the case and measures 8 ¾” high by 11 5/64” long. The bentside, as the name implies, is the bent portion of the right side of the case. The Nameboard is 5” high and spans the space between the spine and the cheek. The 6th part, which is not shown, is the case bottom. All six of these components are ½” thick, or as close to ½” as I can get – more on this later.)

instrument.jpg




Instruments in this style (Flemish School) are built “on the bottom”. In simple English this means that the case sides sit on top of the bottom. It would seem to make sense, therefore, to build the bottom first. So, of course, we won’t. Instead, we’ll build the bentside first. By doing this we’ll have the actual bentside to use as a template to trace its shape onto the bottom when we build it in the next Part. When the original harpsichord that our instrument is based on was built (in 1640 by the Ruckers family) the bentside was made out of a solid plank of wood. It was bent by heating it over a fire and then immediately fastened to the bottom before it cooled. My wife is not thrilled by this method so we will laminate the bentside instead. Here we go!

We are trying to laminate a bentside that will be ½” thick. Normally, we would use 4 pieces of 1/8” thick stock. In this case, because this instrument is smaller than the ones I usually build, we’ll use 3 pieces of stock planed down to a little less than 3/16” thick on the planer. This should cause the finished bentside to springback a bit more than usual which, hopefully, will match the shape on the blueprint more closely. The finished shape of the bentside need not match the plan perfectly but it’s nice to get it as close as posssible. The first photo shows the 3 plies sitting on top of the bentside jig.

bentside1.JPG



In the next photo, the first two plies have had glue spead on their mating surfaces and are drying on the jig. We’ll let them dry for an hour and then glue and clamp the 3rd and final ply to the first two. Then we’ll let them dry in the jig overnight.

bentside2.JPG



Here’s a closup of the jig clamps.

bentside3.JPG



While we have the jig set up we’ll bend one more part that we’ll use in a later step. This part is an interior rail that will be glued to the inside of the bentside. Might as well laminate this part now.

bentside4.JPG



The final photo in this Part shows the bentside and bentside liner after they were removed from the jig.

bentside5.JPG



At this stage the bentside is longer and taller than we need. We will cut it down to size when we install it onto the bottom. In Part V (coming tomorrow) we’ll build the case bottom. See you then.

Ernie

Part 1 - The Keyboard Part 2 -Keyboard con't. Part 3 - Keyboard con't. Part 4 - The Case (Bentside) Part 5 - Case Bottom Part 6 - Case Sides Part 7 - The Lower Braces Part 8 - Case Finished Part 9 - Building the Registers Part 10 - The Stand Part 11 - Jackrail & Moldings
Part 12 - The Music Desk
Part 13 - Building the Benchhttp://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f101/harpsichord-project-part-12-music-desk-18962/
 
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Trent Mason

New User
Trent Mason
Ernie,

Thanks so much for the the info that you've posted so far about your latest project. When you first got on here I thought, "man, I guy that builds harpsichords? That's way out of my league!" :swoon: But your tutorials are really putting it in a new light for me. I mean, don't get me wrong, building harpsichords is still WAY out of my skill level, but it has been truly interesting to see how you do it. Thanks so much for taking the time to illustrate and explain how you build these works of art. :icon_thum

Cheers, :eek:ccasion1

Trent
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
Earnest, how much springback do you see with your setup, measured from the base of the chord? I'm thinking slats for chairbacks.
Thx,
Joe
Forgot my other Q! What glue do you use? It must take a while to get all those clamping blocks tightened down.
 

ErnieM

Ernie
Corporate Member
Tom :

Thanks, I'm enjoying the play by play too. As for the glue used it's Original Formula Titebond yellow glue. I've read articles concerned with "glue creep" in laminations but I've been using Titebond for years and have not found it to be a problem.

Joe:

It's a little hard to tell because I use the same jig for different size instruments - I just use a different part of the lamination. However the plan calls for a maximum offset of 2 3/4" and I ended up with a little over 2". This is measured over a span of 36". I'm sure if I had used 4 pieces of 1/8" stock instead of 3 pieces of 3/16-" stock I would have had less spingback - I would guess about 1/4" over 36". Trial and error, although cumbersome and time consuming, is necessary if you need a specific bend. I know of no way to predict the amount of springback. Even the wood species will effect springback so if you build a jig that gives you the correct amount of bend it's probably a good idea to use the same species in your actual project.

Thanks for your comments,
Ernie
 
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