Hammer Veneer - Method Improvement Suggestions

[Mark Johnson]

I am making some drawer fronts that include some thin (1/4 inch) panels. Since they are small, I decided to use some of the info. from a workshop several years ago that included hammer veneering. I made my veneer (1/16 inch thick) by planing the edge of 15/16 inch board and then slicing it on my bandsaw to create the veneer. The faces are fairly rough. I then took the veneer edges and used my shooting board to insure even edges for bookmatching. I tried my veneer saw (Granercy) but because this material is a burl the saw did not produce an edge even enough for a good bookmatch in my opinion. I have not done this much, but the saw technique is not that difficult. I used hide glue ( a fresh batch) coated the 1/4inch back panel of walnut, wet the outside of the veneer to counter the curl if I put glue on only one side, and laid the veneer. The veneer still curled some as you can see in the pictures. However, the part that did not work well, is that even though I had the edges together for the book match when I finished with the veneer hammer; they seemed to pull apart at the edges as they dried. So, I have several questions:
1. What am I missing from a techniques stand point?
2. How do I go about removing the veneer in one piece to give this another go?
3. What other suggestions can those of you who do this frequently make? This is a skill I fully intend to master.

Thanks!

 

[Graywolf]

I'm hoping Danmart77 will step in here. He would be the one off the top of my head that could give you solid advice.

 

[drw]

Mark, like Richard, I am looking forward to Dan's response...he is the undisputed expert. That said, it seems to me that a miss step is a "press".

 

[Graywolf]

I'll say this, in my conversations with Dan on the subject he saturates both sides of the veneer with glue. This egualizes the moisture of the veneer, which keeps the veneer from curling. It also acts as a grain filler and does not effect the finish.
That said I'm not a veneer expert I am simply a novice.

 

[Mark Johnson]

Thanks, if he does not respond to the post, I will just reach out to him directly. He certainly will know what I've missed. Thanks for the input!

 

[Phil S]

Richard is spot on with the suggestion of coating both sides of the veneer with the hide glue and then use the hammer as a squeegee (good looking veneer hammer you got there)

 

[Mark Johnson]

Yes Sir it is! A Phil Soper special order hammer. Works great!!

 

[Mark Johnson]

Here is another picture of the hammer veneer panel showing quite a bit of warp in the opposite direction from where it was the day before. I just thought some of you would find it interesting to see how much impact a little water can make! Again, it is 1/16 inch veneer on a 1/4 inch walnut panel that is only 7 inches wide! I think I can safely say that the glue joint is quite strong and fully attached. Sorry the picture is not more clear. I will include the before picture from the original message as well so you can compare for yourself. The top picture is from today. The bottom is the original. If it is not obvious to you, the direction of the veneer bend is completely opposite the original curve. The only difference is drying time for the water to leave the veneer.
Thanks!

 

[drw]

Mark, glad to know that you got it figured out and that you kept us posted...we can all learn from each other! Thanks for sharing.