Going to buy a Tormek

[joec]

I want to trick it out with diamond wheels so Highland has a package that I may buy. For those of you that are knowable about the Tormek, anything else I need to buy?
I will be starting with basic chisels and plane irons. If they have an extra fine diamond wheel, I guess I would need that? Course wheel? The package includes...

• Tormek T-8 Machine
• US-105 Universal Support Bar
• WM-200 Pro Anglemaster
• HB-10 Tormek Handbook
• DF-250 Fine Diamond Wheel
• ACC-150 Anti-Corrosion Concentrate
• CW-220 Composite Honing Wheel
• EM-15 Edge Marker
• Durable Storage Tray
• SQ-90 Tormek Square
• Special Embroidered Black Anniversary Machine Cover

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

If diamond wheels behave like CBN wheels, the resulting grind is much finer than an equally rated stone wheel. I.E. a #250 grit CBN wheel puts a finish on a chisel or plane blade that is equal to a stone wheel rated at ~#400 or higher. This holds true up and down the grit scale. If the numbers on the diamond wheel and honing wheel are the grit ratings, IMO you've got a good progression to form the hollow grinds on your chisels and planes. You could go straight to a #1000 grit stone for flattening the backs of these tools. If you have to repair nicks or chips in blades, you may need a lower grit to do this rough work.

 

[Chaz]

I want to trick it out with diamond wheels so Highland has a package that I may buy. For those of you that are knowable about the Tormek, anything else I need to buy?
I will be starting with basic chisels and plane irons. If they have an extra fine diamond wheel, I guess I would need that? Course wheel? The package includes...

• Tormek T-8 Machine
• US-105 Universal Support Bar
• WM-200 Pro Anglemaster
• HB-10 Tormek Handbook
• DF-250 Fine Diamond Wheel
• ACC-150 Anti-Corrosion Concentrate
• CW-220 Composite Honing Wheel
• EM-15 Edge Marker
• Durable Storage Tray
• SQ-90 Tormek Square
• Special Embroidered Black Anniversary Machine Cover

Whether you "need" a particular wheel will depend on what you intend to do with the blades you're going to sharpen.

I do a lot of wood turning and I sharpen my tools to a 120 grit belt and can get a surface that allows my to start with a 320 for sanding. I could go finer on the sharpening system, but my sense is that a finer edge will work fine and then start to dull quickly. The 120 works perfectly, and the edge lasts a long time. I would never put the kind of edge the DF250 Fine produces on a turning chisel.

Hand chisels and plane irons are a different story. The 250 you list would be good, and should give you an edge you'll be quite happy with,

Then again, the wheel that the Tormek comes with, can be dressed to either a 200 or a 1000, which is not a bad combo, either.

 

[Dee2]

One is posted over on SMC's classifieds. Probably not outfitted like you plan.

 

[Rwe2156]

Very nice set up but having north of $1400 to avoid honing by hand is really the decision, isn't it?

Sorry, none of my business.

 

[joec]

Very nice set up but having north of $1400 to avoid honing by hand is really the decision, isn't it?

Sorry, none of my business.

I get what you are saying. I came to grips years ago with making purchase decisions that added to this hobby of mine (pleasure part) and not worrying so much about the cost. I have a former business partner that collects guns of all types and wants a case of bullets for each gun he buys. I asked him what was the point as he would not shoot all the guns he owns. He just said it was part of the pleasure of having his collection. Same with some of my tools.

 

[Chaz]

I get what you are saying. I came to grips years ago with making purchase decisions that added to this hobby of mine (pleasure part) and not worrying so much about the cost. I have a former business partner that collects guns of all types and wants a case of bullets for each gun he buys. I asked him what was the point as he would not shoot all the guns he owns. He just said it was part of the pleasure of having his collection. Same with some of my tools.

I get it, for sure.

Let me add this - the most expensive is not always the best choice.

Have you considered the Sorby Pro Edge system? It's cheaper, has all the accessories you would ever need and offers abrasives to the 2 micron range (sharper than a razor). Because it's a belt sanding system, it produces a flat grind. I was taught that chisels and plane irons should be ground flat rather than hollow.

I'm not saying the PE is better than the Tormek. Apples and Oranges. Both are good pieces of kit and will do a great job. Tormek has the rep, but that doesn't mean it's the best tool for the job.

I have a low-speed Rikon grinder with a 600 diamond wheel, and a Pro Edge. The Rikon is gathering dust.

 

[Willemjm]

I have been first the Grizzly route (gave that away) then the Tormek route (gave that away free also) and then the normal bench grinder route which I will stick to.

So, I use a normal bench grinder with a CBN wheel on the right and a fiber wheel with compound on the left. For plane irons, a few wipes on a 8000 grit water stone finishes the job after the CBN wheel. I have a few Oneway jigs which I use on the bench grinder.

For me the difference is just time, I can do a badly damaged plane iron in less than 5 minutes and shave hair with it.

Sharpening and Grinding Jigs

oneway.ca

 

[joec]

I have been watching a boat building You Tube show for about 5 years now (Sampson Boat Company) and have been amazed about the detail woodworking going on with that build. He takes fine shavings off of endgrain and seems to do it with ease. About a year ago he did a show on how he sharpened and rolled out his Tormek with diamond stones and went through it. There are so many different ways and I have tried waterstones, Worksharp etc and have come to the conclusion that nothing comes with patience and practice. I keep fumbling around with this.

 

[Chaz]

I have been watching a boat building You Tube show for about 5 years now (Sampson Boat Company) and have been amazed about the detail woodworking going on with that build. He takes fine shavings off of endgrain and seems to do it with ease. About a year ago he did a show on how he sharpened and rolled out his Tormek with diamond stones and went through it. There are so many different ways and I have tried waterstones, Worksharp etc and have come to the conclusion that nothing comes with patience and practice. I keep fumbling around with this.

Those techniques can be hard come by. When I go to Hell, I will be stationed at a lathe, with nothing to turn but end grain. I find that several coats of sanding sealer or some thin wood glue can help.

And a very sharp chisel.

 

[Mike Davis]

I hope you enjoy your new Tormek.

 

[Rob in NC]

Congrats on the Tormek. I went the route of a slow speed grinder and CBN wheel for sharpening lathe tools. I also make knives and for a while used my 2x72. A knifemaking buddy got a Tormek and after using it, we agreed that he could have gotten by with a knock off from Grizzly or Wen, but he doesnt regret the T8. I ended up going a different route for knives, however. I have an old 1x30, which is way too fast so I replaced the motor with a sewing machine motor with digital speed control. It's working out well and I can put an edge on a knife with this as fast as with the Tormek and with more precision than either of my 2x72's. So for me, it wouldnt be my choice, but I get what you mean about tools. I dont 'need' a pair of 2x72 belt grinders for my weekend warrior knifemaking, but it's the pride of ownership.
As far as we know, we only have one trip through this world so we should get what we want as long as we can afford it!

 

[Gotcha6]

I hope you enjoy your new Tormek.

In the end, that's all that matters. You will find if you have money to burn there's a company out there somewhere to help you tend the fire. If you're not satisfied with anything else, buy what gives you the most pleasure. Anything that makes a hobby more enjoyable (and safer) is not money wasted IMO. You're not gonna take it with you and if you can afford to go First Class and don't, your heirs will.

 

[Mike Davis]

In the end, that's all that matters. You will find if you have money to burn there's a company out there somewhere to help you tend the fire. If you're not satisfied with anything else, buy what gives you the most pleasure. Anything that makes a hobby more enjoyable (and safer) is not money wasted IMO. You're not gonna take it with you and if you can afford to go First Class and don't, your heirs will.

I wish I could find the words to elaborate on my thoughts like this.
It’s not that I always say the least I can, more like I say the most I am able.

Thank you for saying what I tried to say.

 

[Mike Davis]

Those techniques can be hard come by. When I go to Hell, I will be stationed at a lathe, with nothing to turn but end grain. I find that several coats of sanding sealer or some thin wood glue can help.

And a very sharp chisel.

Along with proper turning technique, the edge angle presented to the wood in a shearing orientation rather than a scraping action that tears out the fibers and requires valuable minutes or as I have seen in some cases hours of sanding.

 

[Dee2]

"When I go to Hell,"

There are options. PM me.

 

[debgreene]

Those techniques can be hard come by. When I go to Hell, I will be stationed at a lathe, with nothing to turn but end grain. I find that several coats of sanding sealer or some thin wood glue can help.

And a very sharp chisel.

Your comment about hell made me laugh out loud - and just to add my 2 cents - I have an old tormek, no bells or whistles, have used it for 30 years - works great. That said, the best advice I ever read about sharpening was from Chris Schwartz I think - it was just choose one system, doesn't matter which, stick with it until you get good at it. All of them work, all of them need practice.