garage insuatlion question
- Thread starter zapdafish
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I'd use faced unless you plan to use an alternate vapor barrier like Mylar foil or poly. Even though you may not plan on conditioning the air, temperature differences could cause moisture to migrate into the insulation & condense, creating mold. The pegboard hooks shouldn't dig into the facing, but I'd maybe smooth off the ends going into the board just to be sure. A vapor barrier that's poked full of holes isn't much good.
I would use a vapor barrier.It would be better use sheetrock then your pegboard.Tony
dang, faced is about 3x more expensive than non faced.
Have another question then, is there anything special about facing paper? Is it possible to get that separate? or is the paper itself that expensive.
For some reason, I always thought that the cost difference was in bonding the insulation and the paper together.
Have another question then, is there anything special about facing paper? Is it possible to get that separate? or is the paper itself that expensive.
For some reason, I always thought that the cost difference was in bonding the insulation and the paper together.
It isn't that much of a cost to bond on. They use a thinned tar cement. That's what makes kraft faced insulation so combustible in the event of a fire. You could also use 4 mil poly stapled over the stud faces after the batts are installed. IMO, this is a superior installation process as it virtually eliminates drafts.
Ditto on the drywall behind the pegboard. I assume you already have it on the wall adjoining the house as is required by code.
yeah, adjoining walls were done that way when the house was built. I decided not to get a finished garage so I could wire it up. Just never got around to finishing it up once I finished the wiring. Now I got so much stuff in the garage, its a major pain to finish the walls.
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