Flatten Veneer

[ednl]

With regard for all the woodworking sites on YouTube, I had some time to waste (invest?) in learning something about flattening veneer. Most craftsmen subscribe to the "old" school method of pressing wet veneer between paper sheets until it is dry. But one gentleman used a standard clothes iron to press a sheet of veneer flat and soft, albeit not thoroughly dry. He seems to suggest it can be dried further in a press between sheets of paper. It appears (to me) that using the iron is just a quick way to steam off a lot of the moisture without waiting 24 hrs for the first pressing to do the same?

So, my question for this forum: is using an iron on veneer sheets really a good idea or is it something that just seems to suit this individual craftsman's technique?

Here's a link to his video:

 

[Cuthriell]

I use MDF with fiberglass window screen touching the veneer and thick brown paper between the MDF and screen. Top it off with a second piece of MDF. The MDF is coated multiple times with shellac (what I mostly have). I place 40 pound lead bricks on top anywhere from 4 to 10 bricks depending on the size. Before pressing I spray the veneer with 50/50 alcohol water mixture. I have used the alcohol water mix with powdered resorcinol glue and glycerin and found it to not be any better than if I use the pressed veneer as soon as I pull it out of the MDF sandwich. I glue the panel and veneer using the same MDF and lead bricks.

 

[Wilsoncb]

Humm, the chap in the video doesn’t show how flat it stays after it’s dry. AND, it looks like he isn’t doing anything to hold them flat as they dry. I’m skeptical.

 

[Rwe2156]

If it’s still wet I doubt it’s going to stay flat.

I‘ve always used veneer softener.

Is burl pronounced burr across the pond?

 

[Kirk S]

This technique appears to work well for a single piece of veneer but if creating a veneer top with multiple pieces that need to be seamed, it is better to using the softening agent.

 

[danmart77]

If it’s still wet I doubt it’s going to stay flat.

I‘ve always used veneer softener.

Is burl pronounced burr across the pond?

Yes

 

[danmart77]

Any time you introduce moisture there is a risk of the veneer pulling the substrate out of shape. I have used the iron and water techique, then quickly applied the veneer(burl) with a veneer hammer with good results. When I show beginners veneer tecchniques that I use, I tell them to start with unfigured veneer till they get experience with the way to apply it and gain confidendce. I use burl from time to time but I lean towards crotch figure to add a bit of flare. Many here on the forum think you can just apply veneer to plywood and it won't cup or curl. I don't apply veneer to plywood I apply it to hardwood substrates as a rule. My experience, not videos, tell me you can veneer one side if it is in a frame, or it is dovetailed as a drawer front or screwed down it won't warp down the road. The first photo is walnut crotch glued to a piece of walnut, the second is veneer applied to a drawer front and stabilzed with the side pieces.

 

[Wilsoncb]

Any time you introduce moisture there is a risk of the veneer pulling the substrate out of shape. I have used the iron and water techique, then quickly applied the veneer(burl) with a veneer hammer with good results. When I show beginners veneer tecchniques that I use, I tell them to start with unfigured veneer till they get experience with the way to apply it and gain confidendce. I use burl from time to time but I lean towards crotch figure to add a bit of flare. Many here on the forum think you can just apply veneer to plywood and it won't cup or curl. I don't apply veneer to plywood I apply it to hardwood substrates as a rule. My experience, not videos, tell me you can veneer one side if it is in a frame, or it is dovetailed as a drawer front or screwed down it won't warp down the road. The first photo is walnut crotch glued to a piece of walnut, the second is veneer applied to a drawer front and stabilzed with the side pieces.

Af reading this I’m a little concerned about a little veneer job I was about to do. I’m making a sliding top for a box and have a chestnut burl veneer for it. I have some formica I thought I could use as a backer. The piece is 13”x17” and I want to use 1/4” thick Baltic birch for the substrate. One long edge will have a 3/4” thick stiffener, but the other 3 edges won’t have any support when it’s not slide into place. What are the chances of keeping this flat?

 

[Martin Roper]

I can't see a 5/16" top not bowing noticeably over a 17x13 span. I'd be tempted to put a nice veneer on both sides so it could be periodically flipped when it does start to become noticeable. If you used unique veneers it would completely change the look of the box each time the top is flipped.

 

[Wilsoncb]

I can't see a 5/16" top not bowing noticeably over a 17x13 span. I'd be tempted to put a nice veneer on both sides so it could be periodically flipped when it does start to become noticeable. If you used unique veneers it would completely change the look of the box each time the top is flipped.

Good idea. I guess my real question is will adding veneer to 1/4”BB make it bow more than if there was nothing?
I’m OK with the expected bow of just a plain piece of BB.