Finish Advice, Again!

[terry1166]

Okay, a couple of weeks ago I ask for advice on repairing a mistake I made when I rubbed through a lacquer finish on the edge of a project. It turned out that I was able to apply 3 more coats of lacquer and (carefully this time) rub out the piece again. The final finish ended up mirror slick and very reflective.

I have another small Christmas project made from ribbon sapele. I have not worked with sapele before and didn't realize how much open grain is in this wood. Again, I want a rubbed, gloss finish on the project.

I decided to filled the pores by wet sanding with a 50% or better reduction of boiled linseed oil with 320 wet/dry paper. Now I'm trying to decide whether to finish coat with super blonde shellac or spray vinyl sealer and finish with gloss lacquer. Both would be rubbed out in the end. I am running out of time and my thought is the shellac finish will build faster if I brush apply versus spraying the lacquer.

The boiled linseed oil has been allowed to dry for 4 days inside the house with heat and low humidity and is ready to finish.

If you recommend shellac, what cut would you use for the finish. I make my on from flakes.

Any ideas or advice on this would certainly be appreciated.

Terry

 

[ScottM]

BLO takes a very very long time to dry. I would lay a piece of toilet paper on it for an hour or so to see if you have any transfer.

 

[terry1166]

I'm aware of the problems with applying a finish over BLO too soon. I've used BLO and super blonde shellac on several other projects. The BLO on this project is ready to finish. I've pretty much decided to do a brushed shellac to get a quicker build that I will rub out once the shellac has cured for a couple of weeks.

Thanks for the warning about the BLO.

Terry

 

[Jeff]

Brushing a 1 lb. cut seems like a reasonable starting point IMHO. The quick drying time should allow you to apply 2-4 coats/day. Thorough drying in between coats isn't necessary because the next coat simply "melts" (dissolves) into the previous coat.

Warning: Shellac will blush if the dew point and temperature are within 10 degrees of one another. :BangHead:

 

[Gofor]

You should be fine with shellac. Problem with lacquer is the thinner. The thinner does not play well with finishes that dry by oxidation (i.e BLO, varnish, enamel, etc): causing lifting and peeling.

Go

 

[terry1166]

I really appreciate the advice everyone has offered. I normally mix a 1 lb cut of shellac and I do know to watch the temperature, humidity and dew point.

I have some left over super blonde shellac that's about 3 months old and it tests okay, but I think I'll mix a brand new batch just to be safe.

Thanks again,

Terry

 

[sazdaman]

If you used BLO, then you should, SHOULD put at least 2 coats of shellac over the top allowing at least 7 days for the BLO to flash off. THis will produce the sealing coat. You can mix it a 4lb mix that will be thin. Start with a 2 lb mix and cut it again. I would use Behlen's denatured alcohol to cut it. Then the lacquer should lay down without pealing. What you're trying to do is create a separation layer so the lacquerdoesn't come into contact with the BLO. YOu can also forgo the shellac and go right to vinyl sealer.

 

[terry1166]

If you used BLO, then you should, SHOULD put at least 2 coats of shellac over the top allowing at least 7 days for the BLO to flash off. THis will produce the sealing coat. You can mix it a 4lb mix that will be thin. Start with a 2 lb mix and cut it again. I would use Behlen's denatured alcohol to cut it. Then the lacquer should lay down without pealing. What you're trying to do is create a separation layer so the lacquerdoesn't come into contact with the BLO. YOu can also forgo the shellac and go right to vinyl sealer.

Did decide to finish with lacquer rather than shellac. Have sprayed all parts with vinyl sealer and everything looks good. Thanks for the advice.

Terry

 

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> I will rub out once the shellac has cured for a couple of weeks.

No need to wait that long. Shellac consists of only two components. The resin from the lac bug and alcohol. Shellac is hard and dry as soon as it is dry to the touch which occurs when all the alcohol has evaporated. Many will rub out within hours of the final coat as long as a the shellac was applied in thin coats. At most, 24 hours is well on the safe side.