I would like to know what others use to attach faceframes to a cabinet front if they don't have a PortaCable jointer? I have a Dewalt jointer that cuts 10, 20 bixcuits and even have a jointer that cuts smaller biscuit that I understand is small enough to cut biscuits for a small box. Haven't used it, was given to me. Lorraine
Faceframe question
- Thread starter lwhughes149
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There are a number of ways to join the members of the face frame together and to join the face frame to the case.
You can join your face frame members together with dowels, biscuits, pocket screws, M&T, loose M&T.....
You can attach the face frame to the cabinet via pocket screws, face nail, glue only, biscuits, or the method I teach in my classes which is a groove. I teach how to make cabinets in my cabinetmaking class (Possibly running on Oct. 14th) so the FF and carcase work together instead of making the box, making the faceframe, and trying to align the two together. Most folks do three glueups. I teach how to assemble the cabinets in two.
M
McRabbet
Lorraine,
I assemble face frames using face frame screws (two per joint), and I make the face frames so they overlap the cabinet sides by 1/4". Likewise, I make the cabinet sides 1/4" wider than the tops and bottoms and leave the 1/4" proud on the case when assembled. Then I run a 3/4" dado (for 3/4" sides) from top to bottom on the inside of the face frame, 1/4" in from each stile side. The extended side fits into this dado. Then the face frame is attached with glue in the dado and face frame screws from the outside of the top and bottom side of the bottom. I also dimension the lower stile to be flush with the inside of the cabinet. Solid method of construction, no exposed brad holes on FF's and easy to built. The dadoes also help insure everything is square. A Kreg Jig is the best investment you'll make if you are serious about doing your kitchen cabinets. The K3 Master is $139 at Lowes.
HTH. Rob -- BTW, did you get the files I sent?
I assemble face frames using face frame screws (two per joint), and I make the face frames so they overlap the cabinet sides by 1/4". Likewise, I make the cabinet sides 1/4" wider than the tops and bottoms and leave the 1/4" proud on the case when assembled. Then I run a 3/4" dado (for 3/4" sides) from top to bottom on the inside of the face frame, 1/4" in from each stile side. The extended side fits into this dado. Then the face frame is attached with glue in the dado and face frame screws from the outside of the top and bottom side of the bottom. I also dimension the lower stile to be flush with the inside of the cabinet. Solid method of construction, no exposed brad holes on FF's and easy to built. The dadoes also help insure everything is square. A Kreg Jig is the best investment you'll make if you are serious about doing your kitchen cabinets. The K3 Master is $139 at Lowes.
HTH. Rob -- BTW, did you get the files I sent?
Rob, I got the files, thanks, will use that later. Interested in the method of attaching faceframes that you refer to in this post. What is a K3 Master? I will check at Lowes this week. Yes I am serious about making the cabinets for the kitchen.
John, wish I could take your class on cabinet construction but timing is a problem at the moment, maybe later. I am going to head in the direction that Rob suggest this time. Thanks for the suggest.
Rob did a pretty good job explaining how it is done. The idea is to basically use the face frame to register your sides, top, and bottom so you only have two glueups. Rob might have some pics in his Gallery from his cabinet class with me that shows the construction.
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M
McRabbet
Lorraine -- Woodguy's class is an excellent way for you to learn how to build sturdy cabinets using the method he and I have described. It is well worth your effort. Here are some pictures from my gallery of the First Class that John taught. I recommend it highly.
Chris has answered your question about the K3 Master -- same price now at Lowes (but I got mine on Amazon.com last January for $109 shipped!)
Rob
Chris has answered your question about the K3 Master -- same price now at Lowes (but I got mine on Amazon.com last January for $109 shipped!)
Rob
Once the faceframe is put together, what are some suggestions for attaching the faceframe to the cabinet?
The DeWalt should take number zero biscuits which would fit in a 2 1/4 inch face frame. I have built and attached face frames with biscuits myself using the 0 size for putting the frame together and size 20 for fastening to the cabinet.
Personally, I have gotten to where I like to put my face frames together and attach them to the cabinet with pocket holes. Quick, strong, and tight. If you do get a pocket hole jig, I would get the Kreg.
Personally, I have gotten to where I like to put my face frames together and attach them to the cabinet with pocket holes. Quick, strong, and tight. If you do get a pocket hole jig, I would get the Kreg.
Please read Robs first post again. He described how it works. If you are still confused please PM me or Rob and we will get you heading in the right direction. This method isn't in any books, but it is far superior to other methods. Take it from a guy who has tried every method.
Thanks,
John
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