excessive table rust

[windknot]

I have a moisture problem in my unheated shop. When we have a cold rainy day and it warms up, I get mega moisture in my shop. This is causing bad rust problems on the beds of the jointer, tablesaw, shaper, and bandsaw. What is the best solution?

 

[DaveO]

I use a dehumidifier, and frequent application of paste wax to keep my basement shop from messing up my CI. There are also several products that serve the same purpose, I haven't used them so I can't give a personal recommendation. I've heard TopSaver and Biosheild are pretty good. I am not sure if those are the exact names, but I'm sure that I'll be corrected if not.

Dave

 

[rickc]

I had the same rude awakening when I moved out here from Phoenix! Makes one sick to see rust forming and water condensing on your tools! Anyway, I resorted to a combination of the following:

Boeshield - seemed to work ok, but I liked the "slickness" the paste was gave me better. Especially on table and scroll saw surfaces.

Paste Wax on the table surfaces.

Putting an old fitted sheet over the tools. Doesn't look pretty, but that combination seemed to help immensely.

 

[SteveColes]

I've heard TopSaver and Biosheild are pretty good. I am not sure if those are the exact names, but I'm sure that I'll be corrected if not.

Dave

I've used TopSaver and was unimpressed. A single drop of sweat caused a rust spot within hours, but with a cheap paste wax, no such problem.

JunqueCol, recommends just straight paraffin that he gets in blocks. He gave me one and the next time I wax my tops, I'm going to try his technique and see if there is a difference.

Hey JunqueCol, please chime here

 

[D L Ames]

Mike, it sounds like you have your work cut out for you. I don't envy you one bit. hopefully you will have your shop completed soon so you get get everything out of storage and set-up.

D L

 

[sapwood]

Windknot,

I had the same problem and I'll echo DaveO's comments.

BUY A DEHUMIDIFIER ($100-$150), then paste wax or whatever. But you'll spend 1/10 the time waxing your tools once you use a dehumidifier. They do have some limitation for winter use, so be sure to get one that works at lower temps. Most won't work at 35-40 degrees and many only work at 55 or so. So check the specs carefully!

Sapwood

 

[Splinter]

My shop has AC and L/P heat but one side of the concrete floor does not have a vapor barrier under it so when it rains the floor "sweats" a little bit. No prblem with rust after started using Boeshied on my table saw and jointer.

 

[gator]

I have a detatched shop and don't turn on the unvented propane heater except when I'm going to be in the shop. I do a paste waxing routinely every two-three months or sooner if needed (a lot of footage through the tablesaw or such). Bottom line, I have not had a rust problem. Cold to hot and an unvented propane heater are two of the biggest causes of moisture and rust according to the majority of posters on all the forums. As I said, I haven't had a problem.

George

 

[Ozzie-x]

My situation sounds a lot like George's, and I don't have a serious rust problem. A few things tend to rust but I think it's the type of metal. Moisture comes from the atmosphere, through the concrete floor, or like George said, from an unvented heater. My concrete floor is maybe 60 years old and that may have something to do with it. Sealing the floor will help a lot. My floor was cruddy with oil when I renovated the building, and I'm thinking the oil may have soaked in and helped seal it. I cleaned the floor, put concrete sealer on it and painted it. I use Johnson's wax on the tables and beds when I clean up.

 

[cpowell]

I don't have any problem with rust and I use an unvented 80,000 BTU propane heater exclusively for heat.

My shop is 20 x 24, insulated and apparently has a good vapor barrier. The shop is so tight (and small ) that I typically can only run the heat for about 5 minutes at a time then I shut it off. FWIW, I keep several hundred bd ft of hardwood stock in the shop, and several full sheets of ply. I've often wondered if the wood serves to moderate moisture content in the air.

I can tell you I have never seen condensation on any of the tools. I'd probably freak out if I did! The only time I've encountered surface rust was on my jointer top. It is located next to the rollup door. I figured I boneheaded out and raised the door after a good rain and some of the water fell onto the jointer table and stayed there for a while before I caught it.

I keep everything coated with Johnson's paste wax. Usually topcoat every few months or so.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Leaving a fan running will help.

 

[D L Ames]

Mike, you better hurry up and finish that shop so you will have a place to store them once they are all cleaned up.

D L

 

[Mountaincraft]

My basement is wet, too. Nothing beats a dehumidifier. The most common way, and a very good way to treat your table tops is as follows:

Soak with WD40, clean rust with a brass brush, hit the top with 400 to 600 grit silicon dioxide sandpaper (or aluminum oxide) lightly with a flat block, clean loose rust off with WD40 and clean rag. Leave a thin film of WD40 to soak in over night.

Clean table tops thoroughly several times with solvent. I like naptha. After the table top is bone dry, coat with a common paste wax, such as MinWax. Briwax is too good (not to mention somewhat soft) for this. I did this early in June, and have yet to see one rust spot, even after ripping and joining some 450 board feet.

Don't forget safety. Naptha is rather volatile, WD40 is too. Ventilation and fire are the main issues. The paste wax is slightly knarly, also.