Epoxy Finish

[JRD]

I'm looking for any advice on this.....

I'm planning to start turning a wooden travel mug based on the new liners available at Woodcraft. I don't expect the turning to be very difficult but just as with other past projects, want to protect the wooden surface from spills and the occassional exposure to water when cleaning.

Today I purchased Famowood, an epoxy clear coat that is meant to be poured on to flat surfaces such as table tops. It produces that thick epoxy finish found on bars and table tops. The instructions say to pour the product onto a level surface and after smoothing it out, allow gravity to level the surface to a consistant thickness of product as it cures.

All that's fine, but a travel mug has no flat surfaces! What do you folks know about this type product, and do you think it could just be applied with a brush and the use of multiple thinner coats?

Ideas are welcome.

Jim

 

[FredP]

hmmmmmm.... good question!:eusa_clap i dont realy know the answer but i am thinking if you apply the epoxy to the wood while it is slowly turning and keep it turning till its dry ........slowly......:eusa_thin i apply CA to pens while spinning and let em spin till it cures sooooo.... epoxy dries much slower and i would think it may work... problem is finding a way to slow the spinning down to maybe 30 or 40 RPM for several hours. anybody else like this idea? or theory?????

fred p

 

[Sir Chiz]

Jim, you can apply it with a brush. If your lathe will turn about 100 rpm or less, let it slow turn. If your lathe doesn't turn that slow, you can turn it by hand, using a hair dryer, heat will accelerate the cure time of epoxy.

You can use a "non" poly varnish on the wood first, if you want to pop the grain. Let the varnish dry, then degloss with fine sandpaper or gray 3M pad,then apply the epoxy.
Let the epoxy cure several days if you plan to buff it, and buff gently, epoxy gets gummy from too much heat.

Chiz.

 

[SteveColes]

Jim, I am going to assume that you got Famowood "Glaze Coat" which is what I believe that they sell as their bar top finish. I haven't used it, but I have used "System Three" Mirror Coat which is a competing product. In fact I have used it many times and it would NOT work very well, if at all on your project. When they say self-leveling, they mean it.

Assume for a minute, that you try the spinning method suggested and you coat and spin for 60 minutes or so. At that point, it may look perfect. But the next day, you will find that it continued to level for probably 24 hours, leaving some nasty sags at whatever was closest to floor. The only way it might work is to leave it spinning for at least 24 hours. But then the coating would be thick at the outside and thin closest to the wood, leaving it in state that would allow easy chipping. The self-leveling formulation doesn't really penetrate the wood:crybaby2:

Instead I would use System 3's "Clear Coat" or Famowood's equivalent or some other brand. It is formulated to be brushed on, in successive coats. I've used it many times and get a very good result.

All that said, it would be "interesting" to try either in a rub on spinning technique. But please, please do not try on your finished project. First, try on a practice piece(s) until you get it right. I promise you that using almost any formulation of epoxy as a finish, is very different than almost any other finishing method.

Good luck:icon_thum

 

[DavidF]

Jim, I am going to assume that you got Famowood "Glaze Coat" which is what I believe that they sell as their bar top finish. I haven't used it, but I have used "System Three" Mirror Coat which is a competing product. In fact I have used it many times and it would NOT work very well, if at all on your project. When they say self-leveling, they mean it.

Assume for a minute, that you try the spinning method suggested and you coat and spin for 60 minutes or so. At that point, it may look perfect. But the next day, you will find that it continued to level for probably 24 hours, leaving some nasty sags at whatever was closest to floor. The only way it might work is to leave it spinning for at least 24 hours. But then the coating would be thick at the outside and thin closest to the wood, leaving it in state that would allow easy chipping. The self-leveling formulation doesn't really penetrate the wood:crybaby2:

Instead I would use System 3's "Clear Coat" or Famowood's equivalent or some other brand. It is formulated to be brushed on, in successive coats. I've used it many times and get a very good result.

All that said, it would be "interesting" to try either in a rub on spinning technique. But please, please do not try on your finished project. First, try on a practice piece(s) until you get it right. I promise you that using almost any formulation of epoxy as a finish, is very different than almost any other finishing method.

Good luck:icon_thum

Good answer Steve, I would agree about the "mirror Coat" definitely not suitable.

 

[Joe Lyddon]

I'm looking for any advice on this.....

Today I purchased Famowood, an epoxy clear coat that is meant to be poured on to flat surfaces such as table tops.... ...
Jim

Here is a link that 'may' shed some more light on the subject...
http://www.woodworkstuff.net/EpoxyPour1.html