Egg-beater drill serendipity

[pop-pop]

Several years ago I bought a nice Millers Falls hand drill at an estate sale. Previously I drilled holes with a pistol-grip tool and usually the holes were slanted one way or the other. Now, I use the hand drill almost exclusively especially for pilot holes. With the hand drill, getting the hole perpendicular is darn near automatic for me which was a pleasant realization.

I stow the drill and bits within reach of when I work at my high vise.

 

[Richo B]

A beautiful tool. I have the smaller Millers Falls drill that I use exclusively for pilot holes. Until recently I didn't realize I had the smaller version, I thought it was the standard size. I also have the North Brothers Yankee Handyman 1545 and very similar 1555 Chest Drill. One day I'll find the larger version like you have. Very fun tools to use.

 

[Mike Davis]

I like the way you have it set up near your vise, quick and easy to use.

I think all my hand powered drills are due for a class reunion photo…

 

[pop-pop]

I like the way you have it set up near your vise, quick and easy to use.

I think all my hand powered drills are due for a class reunion photo…

One task that the hand drill is poor at is enlarging a shank hole to a clearance hole. At least with a twist drill. Maybe I should try the bits in the hollow handle with the straight flute that I have never used.

 

[pop-pop]

Tried one of the straight-flute bits that came with the drill and it works. The shank hole can be enlarged easily whereas a normal spiral-flute bit gets sucked into the shank hole and stalls the drill.

Asked Dr. Google for a bit source but mainly found industrial carbide bits. Anyone know of a source for the ordinary steel straight flute bit usually used in egg beater drills?

 

[Hmerkle]

Tried one of the straight-flute bits that came with the drill and it works. The shank hole can be enlarged easily whereas a normal spiral-flute bit gets sucked into the shank hole and stalls the drill.

Asked Dr. Google for a bit source but mainly found industrial carbide bits. Anyone know of a source for the ordinary steel straight flute bit usually used in egg beater drills?

I think you will only find this in the antique / used hand-tool market...
I could be wrong.

 

[HITCH-]

Grainger sells them.

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Straight-Flute-Drill-Bit-51-45YE49

A reamer might work as well.

8pcs Reamer Set, HSS H8 Straight Shank Chucking Machine Cutter Milling Reamer Kit 3/4/5/6/7/8/9/10mm https://a.co/0yV5XbY

 

[pop-pop]

Grainger sells them.

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Straight-Flute-Drill-Bit-51-45YE49

Wow, a bit pricey at $15.19 for a drill bit just over 1/16”.

 

[pop-pop]

Tried one of the straight-flute bits that came with the drill and it works. The shank hole can be enlarged easily whereas a normal spiral-flute bit gets sucked into the shank hole and stalls the drill.

Asked Dr. Google for a bit source but mainly found industrial carbide bits. Anyone know of a source for the ordinary steel straight flute bit usually used in egg beater drills?
View attachment 214928

The solution was dead simple: Use a brad-point bit to enlarge a shank hole to a clearance hole. The countersink centers the bit and the brad-point bit does not grab the side of the hole like a normal twist bit does.

For my convenience, I added the corresponding brad-point bit behind each drill/countersink in the storage rack next to my egg-beater drill.

 

[JimD]

I have a drill that works the same way but is much newer. I bought it several decades ago, however. It has a normal chuck and I use normal twist drills in it. It came in extremely handy when I was mounting the transducer on my pontoon boat. I had it delivered to the lake I live on and I did not get a trailer. So it stays in the lake. That makes mounting the transducer for the fish finder a bit difficult. I turned it around so the stern was in shallow water and drilled the holes with my hand drill, under water. Worked fine but I had to position the drill largely by feel. In the shop I just use one of several battery powered drills.

 

[Gotcha6]

The solution was dead simple: Use a brad-point bit to enlarge a shank hole to a clearance hole. The countersink centers the bit and the brad-point bit does not grab the side of the hole like a normal twist bit does.
View attachment 214969

For my convenience, I added the corresponding brad-point bit behind each drill/countersink in the storage rack next to my egg-beater drill.
View attachment 214970

You should be able to find straight fluted drills in much smaller sizes by looking for Yankee Drill bits. I see the drills from time to time in antique shops and flea markets but they never seem to have all the bits (stored in the handle).

 

[Mike Davis]

Here are most of mine, a couple need parts.

 

[Gotcha6]

Here are most of mine, a couple need parts.

View attachment 215000

Wow, Mike. You collect those like most people collect routers - and it's lots cheaper too!

 

[Mike Davis]

Wow, Mike. You collect those like most people collect routers - and it's lots cheaper too!

Yeah, about $6 each…

 

[tghsmith]

I have a millers falls jewelers drill, 8" replaced the shaft with one with a small collet chuck,, works great on my model work when a power tool is to much..

 

[tghsmith]

a photo of my little jewel of a jeweler's drill, when I'm working on my 1890's ship models it's neat to think thats it's from the same period...

 

[Hmerkle]

a photo of my little jewel of a jeweler's drill, when I'm working on my 1890's ship models it's neat to think thats it's from the same period...

Kind of a ”beauty shot”!!!