Edge plywood or not?

[Brogan]

It's quite clear I'm going to need a table saw to make the lids.

Even with a straight edge, my cuts with a circular saw are like a dog's hind leg - it's just not going to cut it (pun intended).

Good excuse for a new tool I suppose ...

 

[Wyatt Co.]

It's quite clear I'm going to need a table saw to make the lids.

Even with a straight edge, my cuts with a circular saw are like a dog's hind leg - it's just not going to cut it (pun intended).

Good excuse for a new tool I suppose ...

Agreed. But in the mean time, a straight edge and a pattern bit for your router will give you the clean/straight edges you desire.

But you definitely need a table saw.

 

[Brogan]

Hmm, I hadn't considered the router.
Thanks!

Now I just need a decent straight edge ...
My 4' level should do, otherwise time for another new tool

 

[Gofor]

A level will most likely be straight enough, but you may want to check it for straightness against either another level or the factory cut on the sheet of ply. Put the "straight" edges against each other. If you see a lot of light through the gap, one or both are not straight.

When I bought my 6' level, I pulled all they had out of the bin and kept matching them together until I had three that matched. If you take three different straight edges and can match each one tight against the other two, then you know all three are indeed straight. I got lucky and was able to get a close match out of the ones in the bin. I have found that many aluminum levels are slightly concave, some more than others. When I bought my 4' level, I had to use the edge of the steel display shelf to find the straightest one.

You may ask why I went to the trouble (and the curious stares from other customers). The reason to check is because although they may read level accurately when they are used on a surface longer than the level, they may give an erroneous reading when the surface is shorter than the level's length. Also, I was also buying the levels to use as reference straight edges for furniture-type wood working.

With all the above said, your level is probably well within tolerance for what you plan on using it for. Sometimes I get into that "measuring with a micrometer when cutting with a chainsaw" mentality. When matching long boards for a panel glue-up for a table top, etc, the "micrometer" approach will result in a better result.

Go

(Just some more superfluous drivel written on a rainy day stuck inside).

 

[Brogan]

I did exactly the same thing when I bought my levels last year!

The customers (and staff) thought I was mad - I must have been there for over 30 minutes.