Really considering just ordering a cyclone dust collector for the garage and was wondering where everyone got the pipe they use for all the fittings? It would start at 7" and taper to 5 or 4" to the machine... I see the kits they have but was wondering if there was anywhere local you guys have gotten it from... is it any different than stove pipe, save easier to work with?
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That is a big thing too is all the fittings where it all just will come together in the end... I was looking at just the starter packs for 2 machines at $400 on oneida and not much better at grizzly so curious what others use and where they got it. I think PVC would work but boy could it build up some static...
This was the place recommended to me. I think this is what Doug Robinson has too (because I think he's the one that gave me the link)
http://www.kbduct.com/index.shtml
I also heard that The Woodworking Source might be selling duct work soon. Might want to check with Rick.
This stuff is expensive, but awesome ... and you can take it with you when you leave!~
Both are in NC
http://www.kbduct.com/index.shtml
I also heard that The Woodworking Source might be selling duct work soon. Might want to check with Rick.
This stuff is expensive, but awesome ... and you can take it with you when you leave!~
Both are in NC
Doug used K&B because it was the same type of pipe that he had, but that type can get real expensive. PVC will work and you can release the static with grounding wires, but it's still not real cheap anymore and it's down right expensive in sizes over 4". For me, I think that 6" metal ducting is the way to go, but the wyes and other fittings can get expensive.
T
tmwassack
Greetings from Asheboro!
When I plumbed my shop I found I could save a substantial amount by purchasing from Spiral Manufacturing (http://www.spiralmfg.com/). They are the cheapest source I have found and have all the necessary fittings. They can custom make anything non-standard as well. Another popular source is Air Handling Systems (http://www.airhand.com/default.asp); however they are significantly higher. For example a 5 foot section of 6 inch spiral pipe (24 gauge) from Spiral Manufacturing is $11.36 and from Air Handling Systems it's $32.55. The only difference is the Air Handling Systems pipe is 22 gauge. Hope this helps!
Respectfully,
Tom Wassack
Asheboro, NC
When I plumbed my shop I found I could save a substantial amount by purchasing from Spiral Manufacturing (http://www.spiralmfg.com/). They are the cheapest source I have found and have all the necessary fittings. They can custom make anything non-standard as well. Another popular source is Air Handling Systems (http://www.airhand.com/default.asp); however they are significantly higher. For example a 5 foot section of 6 inch spiral pipe (24 gauge) from Spiral Manufacturing is $11.36 and from Air Handling Systems it's $32.55. The only difference is the Air Handling Systems pipe is 22 gauge. Hope this helps!
Respectfully,
Tom Wassack
Asheboro, NC
Thanks Tom, and welcome to the site. If you get a chance, introduce yourself through the 'Who we are" forum.
I bought some of mine from KenCraft Co. Inc. (www.kencraftcompany.com) and thought they were pretty good. Of PSI is decent as well.
M
McRabbet
I've got to add my experience here -- I see I beat Alan in Little Washington for a change!
Josh, I recommend using 6" PVC Sewer & Drain pipe (ASTM D2729) for all of your runs with a cyclone. Do not use snaploc metal pipe from Lowe's or HD because it is too light weight and will collapse. You should be able to find the bell-end white S&D pipe at John Deere Farm Supply places or Ferguson's Plumbing Supply. I bought mine at a plumbing supplier in Spartanburg, SC 18 months ago for $15.95/10' length. Lowe's usually has 6" PVC S&D fittings (you'll need 45's, 6x6x6 and 6x6x4 wyes and straight couplings). Do not buy the tight 90's or 6x6x6 Tees as they have too much drag (use a short section of straight pipe between two 45's if you need to make a 90). The beauty of PVC is that it is light weight, very durable and no glue or screws are needed (you will change it before you perfect your layout). I've used 4" on my smaller DC for years and never had any real static problem. If you think you will, just use metal HVAC duct tape along the pipe sections and attach ground wires to them with a sheet metal screw (I think it is unnecessary).
If you need to make special connections, check out Stan Harder's online pipe connection template software here. I made my own machine ports to replace the 4" versions in order to maintain high airflow -- here is an example of how I make them and one installed on my tablesaw.
Like Geoff Doebs, I have a ClearVue CV1800 cyclone (but it is not installed yet, shhhh!).
Josh, I recommend using 6" PVC Sewer & Drain pipe (ASTM D2729) for all of your runs with a cyclone. Do not use snaploc metal pipe from Lowe's or HD because it is too light weight and will collapse. You should be able to find the bell-end white S&D pipe at John Deere Farm Supply places or Ferguson's Plumbing Supply. I bought mine at a plumbing supplier in Spartanburg, SC 18 months ago for $15.95/10' length. Lowe's usually has 6" PVC S&D fittings (you'll need 45's, 6x6x6 and 6x6x4 wyes and straight couplings). Do not buy the tight 90's or 6x6x6 Tees as they have too much drag (use a short section of straight pipe between two 45's if you need to make a 90). The beauty of PVC is that it is light weight, very durable and no glue or screws are needed (you will change it before you perfect your layout). I've used 4" on my smaller DC for years and never had any real static problem. If you think you will, just use metal HVAC duct tape along the pipe sections and attach ground wires to them with a sheet metal screw (I think it is unnecessary).
If you need to make special connections, check out Stan Harder's online pipe connection template software here. I made my own machine ports to replace the 4" versions in order to maintain high airflow -- here is an example of how I make them and one installed on my tablesaw.
Like Geoff Doebs, I have a ClearVue CV1800 cyclone (but it is not installed yet, shhhh!).
I've got to add my experience here -- I see I beat Alan in Little Washington for a change!
Josh, I recommend using 6" PVC Sewer & Drain pipe (ASTM D2729) for all of your runs with a cyclone. Do not use snaploc metal pipe from Lowe's or HD because it is too light weight and will collapse. You should be able to find the bell-end white S&D pipe at John Deere Farm Supply places or Ferguson's Plumbing Supply. I bought mine at a plumbing supplier in Spartanburg, SC 18 months ago for $15.95/10' length. Lowe's usually has 6" PVC S&D fittings (you'll need 45's, 6x6x6 and 6x6x4 wyes and straight couplings). Do not buy the tight 90's or 6x6x6 Tees as they have too much drag (use a short section of straight pipe between two 45's if you need to make a 90). The beauty of PVC is that it is light weight, very durable and no glue or screws are needed (you will change it before you perfect your layout). I've used 4" on my smaller DC for years and never had any real static problem. If you think you will, just use metal HVAC duct tape along the pipe sections and attach ground wires to them with a sheet metal screw (I think it is unnecessary).
If you need to make special connections, check out Stan Harder's online pipe connection template software here. I made my own machine ports to replace the 4" versions in order to maintain high airflow -- here is an example of how I make them and one installed on my tablesaw.
Like Geoff Doebs, I have a ClearVue CV1800 cyclone (but it is not installed yet, shhhh!).
HEY ROB - YOU GOT THAT CLEARVUE CV1800 INSTALLED YET?
I checked the John Deer Farm supply in Greensboro and they wanted $55 for a 10' pipe, or maybe that was for a 45 wye (can't remember), but anyway...they were expensive. On my way back to work, I saw Greensboro Pipe Company on Gallimore Dairy Rd. They had the pipe for $1.xx/ft. and the fittings were under $10 ea (closer to $5 or so I think). I would highly recommend getting it there.
I did this 3 years ago and went with the Oneida Gorilla and bought all the pipe from them. They did a good job sending me what I needed based on the plan I sent them. I am sure it could be done less expensively but having them do the design helps ensure you size things correctly to support the runs in your shop. I have been very happy with how it turned out.
Regards,
Bill
Regards,
Bill
That is a REALLY cool little piece if software. Haven't actually used it yet, but it has been saved to my bookmarks.
I also used 6" S&D PVC pipe. I have been up and running for about a year and a half with a Clearvue Max and have had no problems. And really enjoy how easily you can reconfigure ducting or use a heat gun to make a slight bend. The only time I had a slight issue with static is when I used a spare 10ft section of 4" dia ungrounded clear flex to clean out some clogged filters:BangHead:
When asking for your fittings, the long sweep wyes and tees are known as 'combination wyes or tees'. This will tell the supplier what he needs to know. Be sure the fittings are compatible with the pipe you buy. Last time I checked @ the BORGs the 6" fittings they carried don't match up with the 6" S & D pipe they have.
Gettin' ready t' do the same thing m'self if'n I can get the IRS agreein' that they owe me some moolah.:eusa_danc
Gettin' ready t' do the same thing m'self if'n I can get the IRS agreein' that they owe me some moolah.:eusa_danc
Thinking I am going to try the PVC route this time... the new jointer and 2HP cyclone will be here tomorrow maybe... so need to get on running some power to where they are all going to go
Then need to make a trip to get some pipe, trying to see if the prices at greensboro pipe are worth the 2hours of gas roundtrip. :icon_scra- Status
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