Dumb roundover question

[jamie]

OK, this is going to sound very dumb...

What is the proper way to round-over the inside edges of a box?

I made a drawer divider, but for this you can just picture a simple drawer. When I chucked up my 1/8" roundover bit, all went well until I got to the inside corner. Because of the size of the bearing, it didn't go all the way "in".

Does this make sense?

What SHOULD I have done?

I ended up just doing the pieces the full length, because, well, it is a drawer divider I want to know what to do when it counts.

Thanks,

-jamie

 

[PChristy]

When I make my frames for my scroll saw work what I do is round over everything first then I build the frames that way all of the inside corners have what I need

 

[DaveO]

The only dumb question is the one that's not asked.
Probably the best way to do the round over is before you assemble the pieces, but that can give you problems where the corners don't meet like they should.
Another way is to route it assembled and then use a chisel to clean up where the bit won't get into the corners.
Also you can find round-over bits that don't have a bearing, only just a brass post that will fit into corners much better.

Dave

 

[jamie]

When I make my frames for my scroll saw work what I do is round over everything first then I build the frames that way all of the inside corners have what I need

I can see that working if I mitered the corners, which I probably have mentioned.

All I did for the corners was rabbet for the thickness the ends, so when it is in the drawer it is locked in place. Same deal if it had been butt-joint.

The way they ended up, the rounded-over part kind of overlaps with the end.

I *tried* to upload a picture, but that doesn't seem to be working right now:

photo.jpg:
Invalid File
It is only 640x480 (28k), so size shouldn't be the issue.

 

[jamie]

The only dumb question is the one that's not asked.
Probably the best way to do the round over is before you assemble the pieces, but that can give you problems where the corners don't meet like they should.
Another way is to route it assembled and then use a chisel to clean up where the bit won't get into the corners.
Also you can find round-over bits that don't have a bearing, only just a brass post that will fit into corners much better.

Dave

I probably would do more harm than good w/a chisel for them... I will look for a bit as you describe, or maybe a file...

Thanks

 

[DaveO]

I probably would do more harm than good w/a chisel for them... I will look for a bit as you describe, or maybe a file...

Thanks

You can find them here called "Small Pilot" bits. You would be amazed at the fine detail work you can do with a well sharpened bench chisel. That would be the way I would go if I only had a few pieces to make. Many pieces, get the router bit.

Dave

 

[Len]

What DaveO said,

The only dumb question is the one that's not asked.

Was found inscribed on what was determined to be a military barracks wall dated back to 1250BC. And it's still true today.

Anyway, back to your problem...been there, done that...a small file or rasp, followed by a bit of sanding, works wonders in this situation.

Len

 

[walnutjerry]

OK, this is going to sound very dumb...

What is the proper way to round-over the inside edges of a box?

I made a drawer divider, but for this you can just picture a simple drawer. When I chucked up my 1/8" roundover bit, all went well until I got to the inside corner. Because of the size of the bearing, it didn't go all the way "in".

Does this make sense?

What SHOULD I have done?

I ended up just doing the pieces the full length, because, well, it is a drawer divider I want to know what to do when it counts.

Thanks,

-jamie

I finish that up with either a file followed with sandpaper or just sandpaper. Usually 120 grit paper is coarse enough for that small radius. Much quicker for me than setting up a router. (cheaper also):gar-Bi

Jerry

 

[Gofor]

Like Jerry, I use sandpaper, backed with a flat block, to match edge profiles in square corners. If the block is wider than the paper, it is easy to use the rounded edge as a guide for getting the corner to match. 150 grit will make quick work of it without the danger of it tearing out. I usually start with the paper wrapped over the edge of the block, and make a "V" cut along what would be the miter line (45 degrees to the edge).

Go

 

[jamie]

Thanks for the tips. I made a few practice boxes recently, and ended up following the above advice. For the task, a hard/flat backed sandpaper.