Thanks. After watching some videos, I think I can handle most of it except I know nothing about AC motors. I looked up the motor that is on it and didn’t find much info. Hopefully a more generic search will have better results.I rebuild quite a few tools mostly, because they are low priced and I like understanding the engineering behind a tool.
The Drill Press- Simple restore - Take the motor off and remove the handles, table and sheetmetal (may require removing the pulleys).
Then inspect the pulleys, clean the pulley area with wire brush and clean it with solvent afterward.
Do this with all of the drill press and decide on what you will paint once clean.
Once you have it clean, oil/grease the quill assembly.
Clean all the parts you pulled off and repaint (except the pulleys and top of table).
You may want to replace handles and ends. You can either buy these, or make them. The knobs and rod are usually 1/4 x 20 or 5/16 x 20 typical. If you make the rod just get a chromed rod and cut the threads in or get a paint grade one. The knobs anything will work, just put compatible inserts in the knob to screw on to the rod.
Dissemble the motor if you want to inspect. This is really pretty easy, you can do a continuity check on the parts (look up 120 volt motor testing for rebuild on google or you tube).
The sound you describe is usually either the starting capacitor is bad or the brushes are too worn. Replace the capacitor its cheap less than 15 bucks normally. Brushes are less if they are going to get replaced.
Clean and paint the exterior of the motor and reassemble.
Put the whole thing back together and you are done.
The more complete way, is all the above but you remove the quill and replace the bearings and replace the chuck. They are pretty simple machines actually. It is kinda fun to do a rebuild.
Normally this takes 2-6 hrs of actual labor time to complete.
Hope this helps.
Well, it's a split-head and you just about can't get that any more. Probably will need a chuck, and of course a nice new Gates cogged belt. You may need a motor, but in the end have a better drill than you can buy now. Tear it all down and be sure nothing in unsalvageable before you spend any money. I assume it is an induction motor, so no brushes.
Love that "remote control"
That is a good idea, but I would hand sand the post you want it smooth, to move the table up and down.Thanks everyone for the advise.
I’m considering taking it a part and blasting the pieces I’m going to paint unless one thinks this is a bad idea. I’ve never blasted cast iron before.
The shaft does spin freely by hand. I'll try your recommendations when I get more into it. Thanks for the advise.A lovely drill press, should clean up nicely if you have a media blaster!
R-I motors are nice, if finnicky. Does the shaft spin freely by hand? If not, new bearings are in order. If so, there are a few simple things to try... There should be a little adjustment slider-indicator if you pop open the hood in the back of the motor. That controls how out-of-phase the brushed starter system is w.r.t. the main winding. Moving the little sliding piece will shift the "brushes" (little graphite blocks) left and right on the rotating part of the motor. That doesn't have to mean anything to you, but the take-home message is if you move it more toward the left or right, it increases the starting torque of the motor but makes for a rougher start. I'd try playing with moving that a bit left and right and seeing if it will start. Don't leave it on for more than a second if it doesn't start, though.
Check to make sure that the teeth on both the rack and pinion of the quill and handle are in good shape... those are the wear parts and can determine if the DP will be serviceable. Oftentimes, if the rack and pinion are worn enough in matching locations that they don't work anymore, you can just rotate the pinion 1/4 turn. The fact that you're now meshing different teeth means that the wear points no longer align and you get useful service again.