I'll be the contrary one here. I think the choice of drawer material and construction method is first a personal preference, and should be based on skill (and desire to improve), intended use of and type of project. My shop drawers have 1/2 ply boxes and applied fronts because, hey, its just a shop. But I think solid wood is more in keeping with furniture.
Though the recipient won't appreciate them, the 14 drawers in the nursery furniture I recently built (thread here somewhere), had solid wood boxes- 3/4" cherry fronts (not applied) and 1/2" poplar sides, backs,
AND solid bottoms. Due to cost, I probably won't use solid bottoms again. Construction was 1/2 blind dovetails in the front and though dovetails in the back. The edges of the 1/2" thick bottoms were cut with a RP bit so the resulting 1/4" edge could slide in grooves in the sides and front. The bottoms are held in with a single screw in a slot in the back to allow for seasonal movement. As far as construction, dovetails are more appropriate and make the strongest joint after box joints.
Also, there are no mechanical slides- the case has parting frames which support the drawers. Since the drawer sides are poplar just like the frames I decided to use UMHW "slick strips" from Woodcraft to reduce friction. The drawer clearance approaches a "piston fit" so even when pulling or pushing on just one side of the large 8" high X 34" wide X 18" deep drawers, they move easily and do not rack. These are solid, durable and good looking drawers, that will hopefully endure multiple users.
I only have one drawer photo showing the front and side of a dry fit drawer.