Door Trim Question

[rcarmac]

Looking for thoughts on how to make this 2 piece door trim, specifically the radius part. The only thing I can think of using my tools is a router with a round over bit on both sides.

Thoughts on making this profile. I worry with a round over bit on both sides about making a smooth complete radius by making 2 passes, one on each side

 

[Fishbucket]

Not seeing the profile very well, can you take a pic at another angle?

 

[walnutjerry]

the end view of the trim would be a better picture of what you have --------if that is possible.

Jerry

 

[rcarmac]

its just a simple 2" x 3/4" trim with a continuous full radius on 1 end.

 

[chris_goris]

Do you have a router mounted in a table? Im assuming youre going to do this "profile" in 2 pieces? one a flat 1x 2 piece, the other with the full bullnose of 1 x 1-1/2?

 

[rcarmac]

correct, its the full bull nose that I am worried about. I have a router table. So I looks like a full bull noses shouldn't be that bad. However, whoever did the other trim in the house seems to had an issue with the settings. Some of the bullnoses are not fully round, more arched to a point, some of the others have a flat spot on the end. So its got me questioning about making a pass on each side without having the same issue.

 

[JohnnyR]

Shouldn't have a problem if you use feather boards on top and sides.

 

[nn4jw]

Wouldn't a bull nose router bit be what you need for this?



http://www.woodcraft.com/product/82...-nose-router-bit-12sh-316r-38bd-1od-78cl.aspx

 

[Fishbucket]

A round over bit locked in a table, and the use of feather boards would make a repeatable profile, as long as you didn't undo it and use the router for something else, before completing all the casings. Even then with using a piece of scrap, you could get right back to where it was with test cutting.
The bull nose bit would make set up a snap.

 

[rcarmac]

The bull nose bit would be great, however I have a smaller router that will only hold 1/4" shank. But those bits are pretty pricey when I only need 13' of it. might see if I can find a low cost one

 

[nn4jw]

Another solution is to pin and glue half round molding to plain 2"x3/4" strips. After sanding and painting it shouldn't show. That would be the least expensive option of all.

 

[walnutjerry]

what are the dimensions on the bull nose piece? I would guess it is 1/2" thick and 1" wide----------if that is the case a 1/2" half round moulding would do the job.

Jerry

 

[Jeff]

Why do you need to replace the molding? Is it a dinged up eyesore that's gotta go no matter what? A local millwork shop may not charge you a lot for a one-off run.

 

[rcarmac]

I enlarged an existing opening. so now I have to replace the top molding. The sides I can reuse except 1 side is pretty dinged up and I was just going to replace it as well.

 

[DaveD]

Hand plane and some sandpaper to finish it off.
Bondo up the dings in the dinged up piece.
-or-
If you set up the fence on the router correctly you should be able to bang out a couple of lengths pretty quick with a ⅜" round over bit.
-or-
Take ¾" dowling, jig it up so it won't rotate, an saw/plane half f it away.
lastly, take a ride over to Guy C Lee and see if they stock what you want

 

[chris_goris]

How many feet do you need? Im certain I have a 3/4 bullnose shaper cutter or one for my hussey that would make short work of this.

 

[rcarmac]

about 7-8 feet. I need to measure twice again to get closer

 

[rcarmac]

where is the nearest Guy C Lee, Clayton?

 

[Jeff]

Is this profile about right with your dimensions?

​

 

[rcarmac]

its close, 4 1/2" wide so 5 1/4" total overall width.