Do most bandsaws have a tracking window?

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Toddler

New User
Todd
I posted a link to a craigslist saw, and noticed the newwoodworker review it linked to said the Ryobi was the only bandsaw Tom knew of that had a window to let you track the blade from in line with the top wheel. My steel city saw has one, and I just assumed all saws did.

It makes sighting in line with the wheel possible, but obviously isn't a critical feature. Is this really unique, or do most of your saws have this? I don't think Steel City even mentions it in their description it's such a small detail.

Todd
 

quid_non

Wayne
Senior User
Hi Todd!
I have a 14" Delta - and am not aware of that feature. If it does have it, I don't know about it. i have been alligning the blade the od fashioned way - spin it by hand and follow the blade migration on the tire.

Your's sounds cool - does it work??
 

Toddler

New User
Todd
Hi Wayne,

It's just a heavy plexiglass window in the front of the saw. I still track it the same as you. I just stand in line with the top wheel rather than looking in from the side. Since I don't actually turn on the saw, and I don't pull on the blade with the top door closed, I can't see that it is a huge difference. I don't even leave the saw plugged it when I track it because my hand turns the wheel.

Being able to watch how the blade tracks with the saw on and the door closed is nice, but I haven't tried changing the tracking with the saw on. I don't think I'd feel comfortable doing that! If I went off the tires it'd destroy the blade fast at that speed and might hurt the saw.

I had figured it was standard to all saws since the manual doesn't even mention it. Guess not, it's not needed, just nice.

Todd
 

Monty

New User
Monty
The Rikons have one. Spin the tires by hand initially to get it "close", then you can "fine tune" the tracking with the door closed and the motor on while watching through the tracking window. Works pretty well.
 

tonyps

New User
Tony
I noticed it seems that very few of the 14" bandsaws have the tracking window. When you get up in size, they seem to be more common.
I have never been commfortable relying on a window/guage to tell me when the blade is right, I always have preferred to look/feel/listen for that....
Now, on the other hand, I do know, that my (GLOAT) brand spankin new :eusa_danc Shop Fox W1729, 19" killer has one, and I do plan to make use of it (little bit, anyway...):eusa_whis

Just my $.07 worth..

Best to all,

Tony ...
 

Toddler

New User
Todd
What did you expect Travis, buying a cheap saw like a 24" MM :rolf: That's a monster. Nice!

I like the window, but I used a square to fine tune the tracking and set the blade to 90 degrees with the table anyway. I was just curious as to how common it is.

Todd
 

Toddler

New User
Todd
I set the square on the table and up along the back of the blade when the tracking is pretty good, and then tweak the tracking to make the blade 90 degrees to the table.

There's some wiggle room in the tracking front to back so I set it to make the blade 90 degrees if I'm doing any stopped cuts. For through cuts or resawing I wouldn't bother.

Todd
 

Monty

New User
Monty
Ah I see! I guessed that's what you meant. What you're adjusting is related to tracking, but isn't exactly the same as tracking. When the top and bottom wheels are coplanar and tracking accurately, then the blade should be 90° as you measure it. When you change tracking, all you really change is where the blade rides on the upper tire. If the blade rides toward the front of the tire (tooth edge), then the cut will tend to track to the left in whatever you're cutting. If it rides toward the back (smooth edge) then the cut will tend to track to the right. Put the blade in the center (crown) of the tire and the cut should track fairly straight.

What you're measuring also depends on the coplanarity of the wheels. If the top wheel is a little forward of the bottom wheel, and the tracking is moved toward the font of the top tire (top tire tilted back slightly), then the blade angle as you measure it will be 90° to the table. However, the tracking will not be accurate -- the cut will track toward the left. If you know the wheels are coplanar, then your method might work just fine... I just wanted to point out the difference between tracking adjustment and coplanar adjustment.
 
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Toddler

New User
Todd
I think about it a little differently Monty,

I was adjusting the tracking. Ie, where the blade tracks on the wheel. And the wheels are pretty coplanar since my saw has set screws to allow that adjustment easily without shims.

But coplanar simply means the top and bottom wheel are on the same plane, it doesn't mean the blade won't drift a little even when it's at the center of the tire. Even if it could, drift is less of a concern to me then the blade not being vertical. Think about it, tires aren't perfect, blades aren't perfect, so tracking to the very center of the wheel won't guarantee the blade cuts parallel to the miter slot. Besides, the fence can be adjusted for drift.

But, if I need two cuts to match up, then having the blade 90 degrees to the table is more important than having it at the exact center of the tire. And since I'm very close to coplanar, I don't need to track the blade very far forward or back on the tire to get there.

Todd
 

Monty

New User
Monty
Yep - I agree with all of that. I think that people who are new to bandsaws may not know the difference between coplanarity and tracking. I know I didn't when I got my first hand-me-down bandsaw. If you only look at the angle of the blade to the table, and all you do is adjust the tracking knob to correct that angle, you can be frustrated and confused at the results you get.
 

Toddler

New User
Todd
I'm a beginner, but I'm also a nerd.

My buddy had a copy of Nick Englers book, but doesn't own a bandsaw, so he gave it to me. I read it before I got the saw, but even then it didn't really click until I tried turning the knob while watching the blade move back and forth on the tire.

Todd
 
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