DeWalt 735 Planer Stopped working (3-blade; Two Speed)

[charlessenf]

I need to know why and, failing that where to take the HEAVY planer for a Factory Authorized or better repair.

I ran about two boards through it last time out and switched it off. Went to run another board through three days later and it would not start.

I tested the outlet for power as well as the fuse/breaker and noticed the speed shifting lever was halfway between '1' and '2.' I could not move it to either position.

So, I removed the top and fiddle around with the black rods on the left side where the silver-colored gearbox(?) sits. By moving these, I was able to shift the lever to the '1 or '2' position. However, It would not start (I over rode the safety disconnect with an appropriate-sized substitute). I replaced the top and tried again - no luck.

I have no idea how that level got 'out of joint' as I seldom use it - and then, only while the thing is powered up. I have NEVER tried to move it while the machine is OFF.

Anyone have any ideas? I can dismantle it further, of course - but prefer to hold off on that approach until I have some idea of what might be amiss.

5/30/2018 UPDATE

Searched for DeWalt Repair and found they are in Charlotte, NC

https://servicenet.dewalt.com/Parts/Search?searchedNumber=dw735

Guaranteed Repair Cost: $299.99
What's GRC?

Such a deal!

I had my Home Depot Planer for ten years or more and sold it in good operating condition to 'afford' the DW735 with three blades and two speeds. Less than three years later I've a dead machine and a repair shop promising they will not charge me more than the price of a new rigid planer to repair my Dewalt machine if I shlep it down to Charlotte and pick it up there when they are done.

I did d/l the parts diagrams and a manual (,pdf's) so I may be able to discover the issue myself. It could be the Speed Switch has nothing to do with the problem and the effort to trace the current from where the power cord enters the machine will be the next step. Oh, let it be a bad circuit breaker!


Thanks for your attention.

 

[David Justice]

The lever on mine was stuck just like yours a few weeks ago and it was that the drive belt had broken, but it would still start. Installing another belt was pretty easy, but unfortunately I can't help with your no power situation. Good luck.

 

[charlessenf]

"The lever ... was stuck"

To be clear, the lever on mine would move - but would not move into either position (one or two) until I went in a wiggled something on the left side of the machine while attempting to shift the lever from between to position One or Two. I got it into position one, or position two that way. But it would easily shift out again and could not move into the other position.

Were is the DRIVE BELT? I saw one on the right side that appeared to drive the exhaust chip blower - it was intact.

 

[redknife]

I think there is a circuit breaker in the 735 with a reset button. Have you tried that?

 

[ehpoole]

"The lever ... was stuck"

To be clear, the lever on mine would move - but would not move into either position (one or two) until I went in a wiggled something on the left side of the machine while attempting to shift the lever from between to position One or Two. I got it into position one, or position two that way. But it would easily shift out again and could not move into the other position.

Were is the DRIVE BELT? I saw one on the right side that appeared to drive the exhaust chip blower - it was intact.

The speed lever is only meant to move while the planer is running, changing it while turned off can potentially jam the transmission, which would stall the motor (hence the warning label beside the lever).

You first need to determine if the motor is stalled and unable to move (in which case it will be drawing considerable current) or if it is even receiving power at all (if no power at the motor then you are looking at the switch, planer's circuit breaker, power cord damage, or even a dead outlet or tripped circuit breaker in your main panel...if it does receive power and is not stalled then you are likely looking at worn or damaged brushes or, worst case, a burned out motor if it was overloaded without adequate airflow or on a long and/or undersized extension cord).

But first start by ensuring that the outlet it is plugged actually into has power as one can spend a lot of time chasing their tale if the outlet itself is dead or the power cord has partially pulled out of the receptacle -- it may seem obvious but it is a cause that trips even many experienced persons up every now and then. If the motor is, in fact, stalled then it could be due to the transmission lever having been moved while powered off or an internal moving part having come loose and jammed the works or even a heavy chunk of wood jamming the cutterhead.

Otherwise, if you go to DeWalt's website you should find a support section with a listing of authorized service centers.

 

[charlessenf]

OK folks, here's the final episode and resolution. Shared here in case another had a similar experience and wanted to know how to proceed. (And, save the $299 repair charge!)


After having opened it up a bit (removing top cover) and wiggling this, then pushing on that or on the other while triple-checking the AC Circuit, plug, cord breaker etc. I had given up and was thinking about shlepping it to Charlotte for the Guaranteed Repair Cost option.

A couple days ago I decided to give it one more (last) look and again removed the top cover. This time I manually tripped the mechanical interlock and flipped the power switch. The motor lurched, I saw a spark near the 'INSIDE' brush. I could not get this to happen again. I removed, examined, rotated 180 and replaced each brush (2) in turn. I could not repeat the 'false start.'

I attempted to fiddle with the speed selector again, pushing it first this way, then that, trying to get it to 'slip into position' or 'home' while manually fiddling (in a professional manner, of course) with the exposed chain drive and idler.

At some point, I was able to start the machine. I replaced the cover and began planing the odd piece of timber. Switching (as the motor ran) from high to low speed, flipping the timber end to end and addressing one surface, then the other.

OK, I fixed it!

How, I cannot tell.

What had gone awry, I know not.

At least, now, e all know what to do!

 

[sawman101]

Having dealt with the Dewalt Service Center on Wilkenson Blvd in Charlotte, I learned a little bit about the GRC. I took my DW 788 Scroll Saw in because it would blow the fuse when I turned the switch on. Their website offered a total rebuild, replacing all parts that needed replacing, and then giving a 1 year warranty on the machine. What actually happened was they replaced my saw with a new one, only removing the table from my tired saw, and putting it on the new saw. The GRC is the most they will charge on a repair, but may charge considerably less if parts and labor are less, as was the case with the saw. It was actually $50 less. So I believe the DW Repair Center is honest and competent, not throwing unneeded parts at the customer, or inflated labor charges.

 

[woodworker2000]

I had my Home Depot Planer for ten years or more and sold it in good operating condition to 'afford' the DW735 with three blades and two speeds. Less than three years later I've a dead machine and a repair shop promising they will not charge me more than the price of a new rigid planer to repair my Dewalt machine if I shlep it down to Charlotte and pick it up there when they are done.

Doesn't the 735 come with a 3y warranty?