DeWalt 20" Scroll Saw-Type 1, Type2

Status
Not open for further replies.

blackemmons

New User
Jim
I recently purchased a 20" DeWalt scroll saw with a "Type 1" motor on it

I see the newer ones have a "Type 2" motor.

Can someone tell me the difference and the pros and cons?

Thanks.
 

ScottM

Scott
Staff member
Corporate Member
The type 1 are better machines. Made in Canada. The type 2 are made in the far east. Some the the type 2 issues included poor casting of the table, assembly issues and bad motors.
 

blackemmons

New User
Jim
The type 1 are better machines. Made in Canada. The type 2 are made in the far east. Some the the type 2 issues included poor casting of the table, assembly issues and bad motors.

Thanks.

I guess old is better in this case. I wish I could say the same for myself.:rotflm:
 

PChristy

New User
Phillip
The type 1 are better machines. Made in Canada. The type 2 are made in the far east. Some the the type 2 issues included poor casting of the table, assembly issues and bad motors.


What Scott said:icon_thum I have the Type 1 and really like it alot - I have had to realign the blade left to right after that it is cutting like a charm:icon_thum
 

sawman101

Bruce Swanson
Corporate Member
I have the DW788, but never checked to see which type it is. However, they,ll have to pry my saw from my cold, dead hands!!!:gar-Bi You may find the need to do a little tune up on it. Treat the table top with a product like Top Saver, which will reduce friction on the work piece; make sure the thumb screws on the blade holders are CLEAN and the end that pinches the blade should be squared, not round. If the saw has a knocking sound, that is remedied by taking the top screw out of the tension lever, removing it, then remove screws from the sides of the black housing. Be sure to go slowly and not lose the small bushing when you remove the cap. There is a rod with an L shape end that goes to the rear, with the front of the short L sticking up into the housing. After removing the metal housing piece, turn the L end of the rod one turn clockwise, and reassemble. You will notice when you tension the blade again, the tension lever won't travel as far to the right to achieve the required tension amount, and the knocking will mostly be gone. Good luck! Enjoy a great saw!:saw:
 

sawduster

New User
Robert
Type one over type two fer shure for exactly the reasons Scott gave :icon_thum I have one of each and the type one is just more solidly built.
To piggyback on what sawman said , take the blade holder thumbscrews out and drag the ends across a piece of sandpaper a couple of times . This helps flattens them a bit but most importantly removes the oils that build up from the blades and all but eliminate any blade slippage :icon_cheers
If you don't have any Top Saver or similar, Johnson's paste wax will do also . Do not use car wax w/silicone ! Wood and silcone are not friends :nah:
Check out Rick's site at http://www.scrollsaws.com/ for some more good info on the saw and lots of other resources :icon_thum
 

blackemmons

New User
Jim
Thanks for the info and the tuneup tips. The saw wasn't used very much but I give 'er the tuneup.

Sawman101: That's an awesome clock you had in another post. I really admire your patience! And what about all that sanding??!!!

Jim
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top