Delta Unisaw

Oka

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Casey
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A worker I know has a Delta Unisaw. My guess it it was made between 1990-2000 range. It has the Biesmeyer fence. He is asking 300 bucks. Got a 3 hp 220 1ph motor any advice on what to check and look for ? any thoughts on the saw also appreciated. I have a Jet I am pretty happy with but 2 hp and it is lighter saw... Thx !
 

Phil S

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Phil Soper
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Great saw and an even better price. Easy to maintain or refurb if necessary and parts are obtainable. Go get it snd keep the jet for dado operations
 
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Graywolf

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Richard
Staff member
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Yep, that’s a good saw and like Phil said easy to maintain and repair. The fence is worth the price asked, so you should jump on it.
 
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zdorsch

Zach
Senior User
That’s a good price! Thats what I paid for mine that needed some work.

Really the only parts that tend to break are the arbor when someone goes to change out the bearings and inadequately supports before pressing out. The other weak point is the front trunion, mine had been broken prior to owning and I’ve since learned that this has happened with others from improper moving (support the motor with something or remove motor and don’t drop the sa).
 
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tvrgeek

Scott
User
I believe you can get a adapter to put a riving knife on it. In good condition, a great tool. Not sure how available non-standard parts are as the current Delta owners do not support the legacy tools. But things like bearings should be generic.

With used prices very high, I wonder why it is being sold that cheap. I have seen them go for 800.
 
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bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Yep, that’s a good saw and like Phil said easy to maintain and repair. The fence is worth the price asked, so you should jump on it.

New Unisaw motors are twice that asking price.

The weak link in that era saw is usually that POS Chinese-made switch. They are woefully inadequate for that many amps regardless of what the printed matter on the switch reads. Another POS switch for a c-note and you're good for another 10 years. A good NEMA size 1 starter is, of course, the best route.

Sometimes the motor gets full of sawdust so the motor may have to be taken apart and blown out. The centrifugal switch contact points may need a polishing with 400 grit.

In today's world, that saw would cost new well over $3K. No, it doesn't have the heft like the older models do, but it still will be plenty adequate.

The bearings are standard 6203 LL size so that's not a problem.

That saw will have to be covered with rust, missing a bunch of parts, and have a burned out motor before that $300.00 price is questionable.
 
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Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
GRAB IT ! ! ! ! ! As others have pointed, the parts alone would be worth more than the price, especially the fence.
 
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Keye

Keye
Corporate Member
I have a 1994 Uni and $300 would not even get close. I would not even take an offer for more than I paid for it.
 
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tvrgeek

Scott
User
Well, I think my Harvey at around 2K is very close to the Unisaw. But the Unisaw was the defacto standard for decades for a reason.

Cracked trunnion or stripped gears is about all that is not fixable.
 
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Oka

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Casey
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Wow ! Thank you All. I can answer some questions on how I got the contact.
It is one of the subcontractors on my project. We got talking and he was showing me some of his instrument repair work he does. Since he never cuts big parts he never uses anything but a small Makita table saw.
Anyway, he put it on a pallet and banded it and wrapped it up and set in the corner of his shop. He showed it to me, we fired it up it runs and looks fine. asked him what do you want for it, "300.00 bucks" Sold. Talking to people is the best.......
I'll go through it when I get it home. . I'll get it back to the house next Saturday, then post pixs.
True confessions ---------- The Dewalt 746 I got for 350.00 - the Jet Jwcs-10 saw I got for 300.00 ........ TBH - the Unisaw looks in better shape than those other 2 when I got them

Now to sell the Dewalt 746
 
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jlwest

Jeff
Corporate Member
I've been using Unisaws for 50 years and rarely had a problem. My current one is 20+ years old and works like new.
 
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Charles Lent

Charley
Corporate Member
You had better be standing there and handing him your $300 NOW or someone else will steal this deal before you get there. My Unisaw is a 1986 with Unifence and I paid almost double that for it. I'm not complaining. I have spent most of my woodworking career looking for better table saws. I even bought two of them new and paid more for each than I paid for my Unisaw used. When I found my Unisaw I stopped looking for a better saw. I couldn't want a better saw. Mine took some cleaning, but no de-rusting, new belts and bearings, and a good thorough lubrication. I have since added a Wixey DRO, a motor cover, and two lengths or Uni-T-Fence extrusions because they have T slots and the Original fence extrusion does not, but I still use the original too, because it can do things that the Uni-T-Fences cannot. I just switch extrusions based on the need.

Charley
 
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AllanD

Allan
Senior User
Jump on it. I have two Unisaws, one bought new in early 90s and the second one I picked up a couple years ago at an estate/barn sale for $20. It was in several pieces in different barns, I replaced the motor, bearings, and fence, painted, etc. and still feel like I came out way ahead. I keep a dado blade on that one.
 
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Oka

Board of Directors, Vice President
Casey
Staff member
Corporate Member
That is an old saying I have not heard in a long time.....Say that to a person under 45 and watch the perplexed look on their face :p

Mine was born in 48. Started life as 3 Ph. I added a 1Ph baldor 3hp and a biesmeyer fence. It passes the nickel test. ;)
 

zdorsch

Zach
Senior User
Glad you bought it! And welcome to the Unisaw club!

And if you find the need for a new arbor nut there are aftermarket options available that work very well through OWWM classifieds (neither available on eBay).
 

Oka

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Casey
Staff member
Corporate Member
Attache are the home coming photos. Just picked it up today.
Unisaw  (1).jpg
 

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Oka

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Casey
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OK, I got some questions. Here is a short video (you will have to unzip) The saw runs fine. The Spindle and arbor are straight and there is no vibration in the table. However, it sounds like the bearings are dry so, I'll probably just replace them.

There is a slight hum you can hear coming from the starter, that normal or is it on the outs ?

I will tear this apart and de-rust it, prime and repaint the saw, then reassemble. I and going to set up on the interior of the saw a sloped base and a 4" connection to attach duct collection. I may discard the black base as it is pretty rusted out, and probably will replace with a solid 3" x 4" oak base. Also any other comments or insights much appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • Unisaw.zip
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