deck questions

[bman]

hey guys I built a deck about 2 years ago the base structure is very strong 2x10’s on 16”centers on a double 2x12 beam let in to 6x6 posts In short it will hold a lot of weight.
I wanted dry storage under the deck… so I covered the floor with 1\2 inch treated plywood\with 30# roof felt then screwed 5\8 treated decking on top making sure that the growth rings were facing down to avoid any cupping about 6 months latter I notice that we had a problem the board were cupping against the growth rings:BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: (lesson learned you must raise the decking off the plywood surface and leave a 1\4-1\2” air space to allow for drying ) I put the decking in a herring bone pattern it was great at first now we got a eye sore as the LOML states quite freq :slap:

my problem is that I don’t have the clearance at the sliding doors available to raise the decking to allow for the air gap so I was going to replace the decking with composite ….big bucks plus I seeing all kinds of problems with mold and scratches cracking etc on the internet…. so my idea is to replace the decking with tile that would not be affected by water..it would stay cool in summer just wondering if any of you guys heard of or seen it done before?....:eusa_thin I am a little concerned with movement and freezing I would cover the plywood with concrete backer board set in thinset .... yall think that will work

 

[Jim Murphy]

I decked my boat dock with Fiberon in 2002 and wash it annually with a 50% Clorox solution and ample hose water. Looks great, no cracks, no mold, no problems. Two years ago I replaced the deck with Trex. This spring I hit it with the 50% clorox and hose water, it looks new. Yes, it's big bucks the first time out of the box, but after that, there's no splitting, cracking, cupping, warping, knotholes, splinters, power washing or sealant issues. Kinda like buying tools, ya know? If you can swing the $$$ for composite, I can heartily recommend Trex or Fiberon.

 

[bman]

the decking comes up to the bottom of the door threshold if i raise the decking the water will get in thru the bottom of the door

 

[bman]

Jim you might want to check out this http://www.gardenstructure.com/composite_decking.htmlwebsite
they make some valid points
i you like it great ...... i don't like vinyl siding either .....just like being informed

 

[DaveO]

Why don't you take up the deck boards, remove the "sub-flooring" of ply, put your deck boards back down on the joist or replace with new. I am not all that convinced that the composites are the best way. I have seen too many problems with them, but we aren't going there right now.
Then use an under-deck drainage system. You would have the airflow needed, and the dry storage underneath.

BTW, wood will cup against the growth ring orientation whenever there is a differential in moisture on either side...basically any time it is in a horizontal application. Growth ring orientation doesn't prevent cupping.

MTCW,
Dave

 

[bman]

i have thought of that ......:BangHead: oh yeah i failed to mention that i glued the plywood to the joist with exterior construction adheisive you know that stuff that if you get it on ya you are wearing it for the next two weeks ..... that might make it most dificult to remove


so none of you guys like the tile idea ......maybe the LOML is Right ....... of course i have been a trail blazer before

 

[Dusty Sawyer]

For me the question would be what percentage of the deck is warped and would it be worth just replacing that much of it. The deck I put in is around 1300 square feet and I would hate to think of the cost of replacing it with a composite. I have seen some really good looking decks with the recycled materials though.

I believe that we need to be using more recycled materials that do not require painting and cleaning with damaging chemicals, but on the other side the price is just prohibitive for me.

 

[Gofor]

You may want to go to this forum: http://www.johnbridge.com/

I just finished up tiling backsplashes for a sink and stove, and got a ton of info from this site. There are several threads concerning exactly what you plan (ie tiling a deck).

The site does have a calculator feature to let you know if your deck frame will deflect too much to put tile over it (will crack if there is too much flex), or if you need more plywood, as well as info on if you will need the latex additive for the thinset/grout.

This was the best site I found with good info on tiling using the materials readily found by the average folk (ie from Lowes and Homer's). A lot of professionals there but also very civil to DIY'rs.

Good luck

Go

 

[bman]

40 x16 could add up to quite the sum about 60 boards 1500-2000 to rich for my blood

 

[rherrell]

I built a 12'x16' deck 4 years ago using Home Depot's composite material. Absolutely no problems with it, however, I don't have plywood under it. I hit it with the pressure washer once a year and that's it. I like it,ALOT!

 

[bman]

:thumbs_up thanks mark that was what i was looking for some info for what i was trying to do.......... not a discussion on if composit is a quality material or not thanks everyone for your comments

bman

 

[JohnW]

Barry,
FWIW, my BIL put ceramic tile on his deck about 5 years ago. It is a screened in porch/deck but open to the weather. It's large, approx 30' x 30' and still looks great. Not sure of the support spacing but there's no noticeable deflection at all and some of the supports are "I" beams. No cracked tiles.

 

[bman]

Thanks John

was that wood I beams? do you know if the porch was supported by posts and beam or masonary foundation. my posts sit on 3ft deep peirs 24' dia with 6x6 post well below the frost line for this area

 

[Truefire]

Barry, I have tiled my front porch and it has been about 3-4 years ago now. I have had no freeze problems creating cracking, shifting, etc; of the thinset or the mortar. Although I was told different by some persons around. l used the interior type thinset and mortar, of course it needs to be sealed good to prevent mold and mildew if used outside.

Furthermore, the only difference Barry is that I placed mine down on a concrete base outside. Not sure exactly sure how thinset covering that vast area would work spread on top of plywood.

But as far as the thinset cracking due to weather in eastern NC, I don't think you would have a problem however you are placing it over a vast area of wood.

Not quite sure of that aspect.

 

[froglips]

A few pics would help a lot, I'm not visualizing the situation very well.

Highlight whats not working.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[Gofor]

A couple of items to consider:

If you use the Laticrete thinset from Lowes, I think the 333 latex admix is what is recommended for plywood, as well as for exterior work. The drawback is the cost (the laticrete is only about $10 per 50lb bag. The 333 to mix with it will run about $30.
As for deflection, etc, if you feel it will be a problem, you may want to go with a smaller tile. That way the grout cracks, and not the tile. Smaller tiles do mean more work and more grout tho.
One problem I ran into with the kitchen you may encounter. I used the Laticrete with the 333 additive, and put a skim coat over the latex painted wall. Atho you should have about 15 min work time with the thinset, the wall was so dry that it sucked the moisture out of the thinset and it got too dry to work in about 30 seconds. You may run into the same thing with plywood, so just a heads up. I ended up buttering the back of the tiles as I applied them, as trowelling it out with the notched trowel didn't give me enough work time.
I am by no means an expert. Just trying to pass on what I experienced.

Go

 

[bman]

thanks go

that gives me another option to consider :icon_thum though about the matt or membrane you can put down first.:eusa_thin I used that admix when I did the bathroom 4 yrs ago no problems so far (knock on wood) might have to give it a try on this project i will try to post some pics latter (wont be pretty though)

Barry

 

[bman]

bump just trying to keep otto away