Dado Question

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SteveColes

Steve
Corporate Member
Reggie -

Not to highjack this thread, but is there any 'secrets' for getting the dado blade off of the tablesaw arbor? Last time I had my dado on the saw, I had a heck of a time getting the last blade off the arbor - seems it had to be absolutely perfectly verticle to move at all. I wondered if it would have been easier to move it while holding another of the cutters with it or if turning it would help. I just remember it was much tougher to remove than I was expecting.
Rotate the blade as though you were unscrewing it. That's works to get it started.
 

JackLeg

New User
Reggie
Pete: I just found the SD208 on E Bay NEW for $79.99. Grabbed one. There are 2 left. Thanx for the info.
 

Touchwood

New User
Don
I agree with the dado set approach. I have an old wobble, but never use it. I have an old Freud set and an old Forrest set..I think I'm a blade freak.

The Freud set I have leaves sharp detents at the edge of the cut, so if you're making repeated cuts, which you would for a 3 1/2" lap you get score lines across the bottom. The bottom isn't very flat either, but that's probably because it's been sharpened many times.

I sent the Forrest set back to them for sharpening, and have never got a flat bottom since. (Anyone want a set cheap???) I'm not exactly a fan of Forrest as you might guess from previous posts.

I got a really good price on an Amana set this Summer, was leary at first because the chippers are only two blades, and one of them is a whopping 1/4"thick. It gives the smoothest cut and flattest bottom of any of the others.:) (How do you spell flattest?)

Don

"Law of the Telephone: When you dial a wrong number, you never get a busy signal "
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
It kind of makes sense that a wider chipper would give a flatter bottom. The Forrest dado set I have has not been sharpened, but the results have been good for me. If you want truly flat bottoms and such I expect the router/shaper is the best route.
 
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