Cyclone location help

[meika123]

Hey guys,
Need some of your expertise. I am in the process of finishing my cyclone, and need a little assistance in locating it. I have posted a sketch of my workshop showing the equipment involved.
Where would you guys locate the cyclone?


Thanks,

 

[meika123]

Since talking with you guys the other day, that is the direction I'm leaning in. To build an external closet which will contain all the noise, dust, etc. Just add a remote switch inside, and "Rock 'n' Roll".
Thanks Mike.

 

[JimmyC]

Dave,

I also agree with Mike about it being in the corner where you have the TS, jointer and planer. They are the machines that produce the most dust and chips, so you want to be closest to them for the least amount of suction drop. Also, outside would be nice.

Jimmy

 

[McRabbet]

I would agree with Mike and the others about locating the unit closest to your high producers -- in or just outside the upper right corner of your diagram. I'd opt for the outside closet if you can do it, or else build a closet in that corner with the appropriate sound baffles to allow return air without the cyclone noise to return to the shop space. Fernhollowman (your duct benefactor), Alan in Little Washington and I have been conversing back and forth for that past few weeks on dust collector control strategies and we will be happy to share our knowledge. In particular, Alan designed a simple bin full sensor last year which can be added to a system for $30-$40 and it provides a great means to know when you've filled that hidden bin with planer chips and don't want your expensive filters to get clogged up as well. I'm working on a final schematic for my implementation that uses a remote control as well and will share it with members of the forum. Good luck -- we look forward to your installation pictures.

 

[meika123]

I was thinking of building a 4' x 4' closet attached to the right rear corner of my shop. That should be more than enough to accommodate my cyclone-right? Was thinking about splitting the right front leg of my stand and attaching a hinge and locking mechanism so I could remove and empty the collection bin more easily as well as use a larger capacity tub.

 

[Jim Murphy]

Well, you need to think about the ductwork and the in-ramp to the cyclone. The ClearVue has an inclined feed to the cyclone, and the recommendation is for a good straight run into the thing. You sure don't want a 90° elbow a couple of feet before you enter the swirly world. And 4x4 is kinda small. Mine is 6x6, planned for a future air compressor, but with the cyclone and the filters, it's getting full. Plus, you need a door.

Before you decide to go outside (and I wholeheartedly concur that outside is where it belongs, draw out your ductwork to minimize turns. And think in 3 dimensions. If you do go outside, and can do it, put in 10' ceilings to allow you to hang the thing up high and have room for a larger dust bin.

Keep us in the loop and we'll overwhelm you with thoughts and ideas. Just wait until you think about wiring up the beast.

:gar-La;

 

[FredP]

one thing that i havent seen mentioned is return air. I dont recall a return at fernhollowmans either. I dont have a cyclone but do have a dust collecter. it is in the upstairs of my shop. the thing i noticed most is that it sucks my heat out along with the dust! if i were to build a separate room addition for a dust sucker [ in hind site ] i would insulate it and put in a return air grill with a filter just like a home heat system.:eusa_thin that way you dont lose all that heat!:BangHead:


fred

 

[Jim Murphy]

I dont recall a return at fernhollowmans either.
fred

Better to have a short memory than a short...

Freddie, Freddie....When you SawZalled that board to let the motor slip in, the SZ was powered from an extension cord that came through the WINDOW to the shop. 'Member? Opening the window allow the warm (cool in summer) air to come back home.

And, FredP and TravisP, you'all ain't been in the loop but the CV is sucking chips and dust. Tomorrow the filter assembly goes in and finally the finger cuts can heal from the heavy duty electronic assembly.

Thanks so much for your help. I'll think of you every time I hit the switch.

 

[FredP]

Better to have a short memory than a short...

Freddie, Freddie....When you SawZalled that board to let the motor slip in, the SZ was powered from an extension cord that came through the WINDOW to the shop. 'Member? Opening the window allow the warm (cool in summer) air to come back home.

And, FredP and TravisP, you'all ain't been in the loop but the CV is sucking chips and dust. Tomorrow the filter assembly goes in and finally the finger cuts can heal from the heavy duty electronic assembly.

Thanks so much for your help. I'll think of you every time I hit the switch.

:rotflm:hmmmm..... guess I got shorted on both occasions!:gar-La; right you are sir there was a window there huh? I used to have CRS but I guess its advanced into CRAFT now.:wwink: if ya cant figgure it out ask me next time.:icon_thum of coarse by thene I will have forgot!!!!:rotflm: ummmm.... who is I responding to? oh yeh got it....:dontknow:

fred

 

[DaveO]

CRAFT...I love it, what were we talking about :icon_scra:icon_scra:icon_scra

Dave

 

[meika123]

All right guys, it seems I have another question. How would you run the ductwork-diagonally across the room, or follow the walls perimeter, and make a turn at the far end? That seems to me to be the greater of the two evils-huh? I am thinking of coming through the wall from the closet, and then running diagonally toward the router table and branching off to each drop, ie: the miter saw and the table saw . Whaddayathink?
Thanks, :confused_:eusa_thin:icon_scra:dontknow:

 

[FredFord]

I like your paln for an outdoor 4x4. Make it larger if practical. You will find other uses like the previously mentioned air compressor.

Your last question about duct location is now a matter of fundenental design. In general limit 90 degree turns and keep the runs as short as possible.

If you have not looked at the Oneida site I suggest you do. They offer a design service for a fee if you are not purchacing, free if you buy a 3 HP colector. The sight also has some good general information. Try oneida-air.com

 

[Travis Porter]

:rotflm:hmmmm..... guess I got shorted on both occasions!:gar-La; right you are sir there was a window there huh? I used to have CRS but I guess its advanced into CRAFT now.:wwink: if ya cant figgure it out ask me next time.:icon_thum of coarse by thene I will have forgot!!!!:rotflm: ummmm.... who is I responding to? oh yeh got it....:dontknow:

fred

I remember the window. We passed tools in and out of it. I have followed some of the installation thread, but have been out of town a lot lately.

 

[gator]

All right guys, it seems I have another question. How would you run the ductwork-diagonally across the room, or follow the walls perimeter, and make a turn at the far end? That seems to me to be the greater of the two evils-huh? I am thinking of coming through the wall from the closet, and then running diagonally toward the router table and branching off to each drop, ie: the miter saw and the table saw . Whaddayathink?
Thanks, :confused_:eusa_thin:icon_scra:dontknow:

Dave -

I think that if you look at a lot of commercial/professional installations you will find diagonal is used most of the time for main trunks. I think that the reason is that you run 'Y's off of the diagonal to machine locations and this cuts down on 90's.

George

 

[Bas]

Definitely try to avoid running along the wall. It makes your runs very long, and long sweep 90 elbows are difficult to find, not to mention expensive. I had no choice in my basement shop (existing HVAC trunk in the way), if you can run along the ceiling that would be my recommendation.