Cutting installed tile

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Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Looking for advice:

Wife has a new microwave on the way that is 2" taller than the one installed when the house was new. I have since installed a glazed porcelain tile backsplash (3/8" thick tiles) using thin-set as the adhesive. So, I am left with two choices:

Option 1 is to cut and remove the tiles in the area shown in the picture outlined in blue tape.

Option 2, Install backer board in the area above the tile to level the wall,

If I go with option 1, I would like advice on the best tool to use to cut the tiles. I have a 4" grinder, and a small dremel hand tool. I realize using a diamond blade on either of these will generate tons of dust, so am aware of that ramification. Will a multi-tool with a diamond blade do a better job with less dust thrown around? This is not typical soft wall tile. This is 3/8" thick glazed porcelain floor tile. I am open to a new tool if the benefits are substantial.

If I go with option 2, I will still have to drill through the tile to install the lag and toggle bolts. This is a heavy convection/microwave, so the instructions require at least one lag bolt into a wall stud and both ends of the bracket secured either with lag into stud or toggle bolt. Option 2 would also require leveling the upper part of the wall to match the tiled area (approx 1/2" thickness, so for that I was contemplating using cement backer board to provide better heat resistance than plywood would offer, although an additional layer of 1/2" drywall may also be an option.

Looking for opinions, experience with the grinder or multi tool, as well as recommendations on brand. (Festool is not an option due to costing more than paying some to do the work),



Thanks for looking and any advice you can offer

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Skymaster

New User
Jack
DO NOT LOWER IT! code issues there is a minimum distance. Go up, keep bottom distance the same, even if you have to have the upper cabinet cut and remade
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Thanks for the heads up, By taking off the bottom molding on the top cabinet, I can get 1 1/4". The bottom of the lower cabinet is 18 7/8", so may be able to get the 18" (?) code reqmt. But, I still need to trim about almost 1" off the tiles because I ran them up slightly higher than the cabinet bottom.

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golfdad

Co-director of Outreach
Dirk
Corporate Member
Mark send me a PM and we will get together. I can instruct you howto cut them with a grinder
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
Here are a couple of options. I have used both successfully

Option A. pull the stove out. Tape some plastic to the tile down each side and across the bottom to create a funnel for water. Then cut with a diamond cutter and a spray bottle of water. The diamond cutter could be in a standard 4" angle grinder or a dremel. If you want to justify a new tool then I would use a Proxxon long neck angle grinder which spins a 2 " wheel and can be slowed down

Option B. Use a 2" angle grinder on medium speed with a strong shop vac. Again, a proxxon would work well for this
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
I do plan to pull the stove out for this work. It has a ceramic top (which I could cover or protect) but also just to make ease of access and allow me to hang plastic for better dust control. I will also most likely need to repair the sheet rock surface after I get the tile off (would a multi-tool work best for this to minimize sheet rock damage?).

Thanks for all the replies so far.

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Lowlander

New User
Chris
I just recently cut a round hole for plumbing into a porcelain shower using a dremel. I used a diamond bit cutter and the router attachment, along with a vacuum and had no issue with dust. It went slow, but worked. I used a bit like Dremel 7150
 

RayH

New User
Ray
Thanks for the heads up, By taking off the bottom molding on the top cabinet, I can get 1 1/4". The bottom of the lower cabinet is 18 7/8", so may be able to get the 18" (?) code reqmt. But, I still need to trim about almost 1" off the tiles because I ran them up slightly higher than the cabinet bottom.

Go

Be sure to check the instal manual for the microwave for instal space limits. The inspector checked this before approving ours. Not sure how it met/exceeded code, but that's what he used.

Good luck,
Ray
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
Here is something I just learned. If an appliance is drawing a large percentage of power from a circuit, it must be the only thing on that circuit - meaning the appliance must be plugged into a single outlet not a duplex. Most over the stove microwaves are plugged into a duplex outlet in the cabinet above it. that will no longer pass. Plus to complicate things if it is close enough to the sink to require a ground fault then you must use a single ground fault outlet, which of course they do not make. In that case you would need to shift to a ground fault circuit breaker. I know this because I just did a job with three such microwaves.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
The microwave is on its own 20A circuit, but does have a duplex outlet. The new one can use a 15A or 20A outlet, so from a safety standpoint I am okay. Easy enough to install a 20A single outlet. Sink is 8' away on the other side of the room, so is not a player. Thanks for the info.

I was looking at some You-Tube videos, and one was a Bosch multi-tool demo cutting floor tiles. Appeared to do a good job and was not generating lots of airborne dust like a rotary. Bosch is one brand that has diamond blades available for tile cutting (some seem to offer only carbide which probably will wear very quickly). Anyone with any experiences with the multi-tool approach?

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jerrye

New User
Jerry
No experience with tile, but a lot with other substrates. Multitools excel in what you want to do.

The greatest difference is not in the quality of the tool but in the quality of the blade. I use Bosch blades exclusively on my three tools.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
Is it truly necessary to even bother cutting the tile? In most cases I would not expect it to be a major issue if the front of the microwave sticks out an extra 1/4" to 3/8". If you cut the backsplash tile for this job then there is no guarantee the cut portion will not be come exposed come the next mcrowave oven replacement (which can happen at anytime once the warranty has passed), which can create all new problems down the road as it will look downright ugly unless finished with edge pieces or trim work.

That said, using an oscillating multi-tool (such as a Fein MultiMaster, or knockoff) with a carbide grit blade will generate far less dust since there is no high speed spinning blade to sling dust everywhere. However, they will not cut nearly as quickly and you may have to grind the edges even and smooth afterwards as the carbide grit blades do not make the same crisp cut as a typical diamond blade. If using a grinder and spray bottle to help control dust, remember to plug the grinder into a GFCI receptacle for added safety (a,ways recommended when water and AC power tools must be combined). You can also hang drop cloth by taping it to the ceiling to compartmentalize the work area and control the spread of dust. Remember to wear a good fitting face mask to filter the air you breath as ground ceramic dust is very bad stuff to inhale, also wear (enclosed) goggles to protect your eyes as the dust is highly irritating.

Whatever you decide to do, I wish you all the best!
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Not cutting the tiles is an option, however I will still have to drill through them to anchor the mounting plate, so some will probably be destroyed a far as appearance goes. However, I am going to wait until the microwave is on-hand, so I can see where the mounting plate screws/bolts will need to be located. They may fall in grout areas, but doubt I will be that lucky. If I cut and need to re-address that area in the future, I will be able to just install a row of straight pieces as a trim. Those I can cut on my wet saw.

So, at this point after having done as much research as I can comprehend at the moment, I am strongly leaning toward getting a Fein tool, and using a combination of the Bosch carbide and diamond blades to make the cuts and remove the tiles. Looks like its time for me to break out my full face respirator.

Between this and the new dishwasher also en-route, guess I have enough to keep me occupied for a while, and getting a new tool always helps reduce the frustration!!

Thanks everyone

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FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
You can always drill mounting holes in the backing plate to avoid drilling through the tile.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
My normal tool to make all L and U shaped cuts in tile, floor or wall, is a right angle grinder using an inexpensive masonary abrasive blade. The kind that wears down as it cuts. They make them for brick/concrete and steel. You want the one for masonary. If you hand is steady, you can make very precise cuts. I once made a picture frame out of a wall tile to attach a soap dish in the middle (on the second try). It makes a lot of dust. Since you cannot go outside, I would use my shop vac with a 2.5 inch hose. My shop vac has a quasi HEPA filter.

I've used diamond blades but I see no advantage. I could make that cut I a few minutes and leave an edge that would look good if exposed. It isn't hard but takes a steady hand. If you can have a second person man the shop vac hose it would be a good idea. Hard to concentrate on two things at once.
 
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