Current wisdom ( biased opinions?) on router table fences

[tvrgeek]

I have the Rockler fence. Simple and works, but is a tap-tap adjustment and if I want an offset, it is by shims. What are the current viewpoints of various fences?

I am trying to come to terms with my router table. Lots to learn. To me, it is one of the scarier tools in my shop, but it does a lot of things. I have the SS iron top with a Tridon router built into my outfeed table.

Oh yea, the Incra requires bolting the block behind the table, which is my outfeed for the S, so that does not work. I need it removeable and to fit the table slots.

 

[drw]

Scott, I have had a Woodpecker fence for many years and it works well for me. While I can't offer any comparisons to other brands, like most Woodpecker products the fence is very well built and very functional.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

On the last shop crawl I noticed this set-up at one of the shops. I thought it was a pretty good arrangement.

 

[ssmith]

This Freud SH-5 works well for me. It can be adjusted very precisely. There is some slop in the mechanism so if you overshoot, you have to back it out a ways then approach your setting again from the same direction.

 

[junquecol]

There are MANY TIPS in the wood working mags over the year on micro adjusters for router fences.

 

[Warped Woodwerks]

I have the Harvey router table fence, but I'm not sure that would work with the SS router table top, or any other top that's not the Harvey.

 

[golfdad]

Jessum Fence here.

 

[gator]

When I was still active in the shop, I had a home made router table and a home made fence. Unlike a tablesaw where the distance between the fence and the 'cutter' must e the same before and after the cut, on a router table/fence it is not required. The only single critical dimension is the cutter itself to the fence.. I devised a pivoting fence. Mounted in a hole near the edge of the table, I could pivot the fence to any distance between the cutter and the fence. I had several pivot holes so I could vary the maximum distance between the cutter and the fence. I think I can find pictures and if I can I will attach. The bottom half of the fence could adjust to vary the bit opening or insert a zero clearance insert.

 

[tvrgeek]

I have the Harvey router table fence, but I'm not sure that would work with the SS router table top, or any other top that's not the Harvey.

Yea it looks nice. I was going to ask about their dimensions, but even on sale, nearly $500!

Among several things, I would like to do some lock-miter drawers so setup is very critical. I was just using the router to skim off just the paint from my cabinet door fronts. It took a lot of tap-tap to get it just right. Fortunately I had a spare to use for setup.

I can't do the Incra as the base of the T has to attach to what would be my TS outfeed. I would like to look at one and see if I could make the mounting easier to put on and off. The pictures look like it is not designed to be removable. If anyone has one, how hard would it be to bolt and unbolt the base of the "T" ? I can of course put in threaded inserts.

The Jessem is really no different than my Rockler, just better built. And it mounts to the sides, not through the slots.
I will watch for a Frued. I could drill and tap the table for it, but it is listed as "currently unavailable" I was not aware of that one.
Woodpecker is always well made, but it mounts in T slots and the micro add on does as well. I have an iron top so I can't imbed slots.

So, looks like I need to search more for DIY from " old woodworker mags" Maybe if I replaced the melamine fences with phenolic, made one rail mount a pivot and added a threaded rod to position the other... Would not be parallel with the T slots, but not sure for my use that matters. As it is, I have to use a caliper to set my fence parallel to the miter slots. I have so many projects backed up, I was going to buy rather than build. Well SOP, DIY.

Excuse the mess, but it gives the idea how I am set up. Lots to think about. Drawer fronts piled up ready for final sand and prime.

 

[tvrgeek]

A replaceable ZCI sounds like a good idea.
Doing some searching, I see some with dial indicators. Might be handy. Mount so it is twice the distance as the bit and easy to read.

 

[tvrgeek]

Yea, Harvey has some nice attributes, but for them to work, you really need their table.
Some interesting details like their use of bearings in their slots to get less play and still be smooth. Idea for a miter slot?

Looks like I could drill the Incra positioner base so it mounts with knobs from the top rather than bolts in the slots and nuts under the table. How "floppy" is it when pressing against one end of the fence to the other? I woudl worry about managing largish-panels and it skewing a little.