Crucible card scraper

Bruce Mack

Bruce
User
I bought this, hoping it would be what I wanted. It is better than that. I'm making a box from resawn pine. I chose a 2x10 with pronounced cupping from my local Lowe's. I hoped the cupping would worsen after I resawed it. That didn't happen, so I shaped the sides with my plane. I chose a piece for the top, expecting to use the convexity to continue the theme. The concavity looks better to my eye. I found that linear sanding to smooth and deepen the concavity created scallops related to earlywood/latewood density differences. The gooseneck card scrapers did not correct the scalloping, probably because I was unable to register the contact point of the scraper with the latewood peaks.
This Crucible card scraper with its long and gradual sweep has done what I hoped. As advertised, it is beautifully machined with perfectly smooth edges and it even comes with a slight hook. I used it right out of the envelope. I think it will replace all of my card scrapers.
 

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Darl Bundren

Allen
Senior User
Be attentive if you're using a crucible scraper on a flat panel because, well, if you do it right you can scrape a groove down the middle of your piece. My lesson learned.

It's a really nice scraper, though--and easier on the thumbs than those you have to flex. They say you can use it one-handed, but I haven't tried that yet. The profile turned out really nice.
 

Bruce Mack

Bruce
User
Thanks, Allen. I had thought of scrapers as an afterthought of hand tools. My right thumb often hurts, but not with today's scraping. It was nice to get good results.
 

Bruce Mack

Bruce
User
Here are two photos of the completed box with stain and oil-based poly. I think the body of the box is too dark so I'll sand it down a bit and reapply the stain less heavily.
Shellac with colorant is another option. I'm driving my wife, who is not the recipient, and myself crazy.
 

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Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
Funny,
I had trouble pulling a burr on mine?!?
Need to work on that...

I had to go back to my BACHO for a job I was working on...

I also have some Adkins (NOS) scrapers and you want to talk about a beast, it is absolutely fantastic!
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I am missing which specific scraper is being talked about. Material, source, or shape? The one from Lost Art?
I use my DFM sourced scraper the most but have a thicker one ( Stanley) and thinner ones from some unknown source. Never got a great burr until I got the textured rod from Wright. Beat my old Triumph exhaust valve stem. Got an Acu-burr and find it much harder to use.
 

Bruce Mack

Bruce
User
Here is my final shot of the completed box. I'm ok with the stain. The miters taught me a lot about persistence. The sides were planed and sanded to their curved profile. After I cut the miters on the tablesaw I did a dry assembly with tape. A mismatch reflected the variation of the profiles compounded with my use of the miter sled. Anyway, nothing matched well. I recently watched an inspiring lecture by Douglas Brooks on Japanese boatbuilding (
) in which he showed one of his teachers edge-fitting planks by running his saw perpendicular to the planks at their junction, removing a little from each plank. The technique is called suriawase. Here are some photos of the boatbuilder, Mr. Ando, doing this (Japanese Wooden Boatbuilding: History and Traditions - Association for Asian Studies.)
I knew my miters were beyond unacceptable, so I tried sawing along the seams at the four corners, then removing the tape so I could smooth the cuts with block plane, chisel, or file. I secured the pieces again and again, repeating the saw cuts. Wonderfully, things looked a lot better. I glued the box and removed any outside mismatch with a block plane. It won't float or hold water but it is a good example of appropriating skills from one's betters.
 

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