Cross attachment to Metal Stud

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Dutchman

New User
Buddy
I am working on a cross to hang at our chuch, and am looking for some suggestions for attaching to the metal studs. I have decided to attach it to one stud, so I can machine the back of the cross for a fastner or series of fastners in the back. Below is a picture of the cross, and a small section I worked out on the finish. Does anyone have some suggestions for attaching to the metal stud?
Also, I am looking for a couple nice pieces of 8/4 walnut if someone has some for sale.

JPC_CLC_Cross.jpg

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ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
What sort of weight are you envisioning for the final product. I'm assuming this will only protrude a couple of inches or less?

If the weight is not too great a series of suitable sheet metal screws (either through the cross and cover with plugs or secured in keyhole slots). If you need even more support you could even use several molly bolts for greater purchase (just realize you may never be able to get them back out should the need arise)... There are also toggle bolts (if bolted through cross), etc.

If the cross is wide enough and/or especially heavy and the studs are of standard spacing, you might even consider securing it to neighboring studs for greater strength -- many steel studs are not as substantial as their wooden counterparts.

Tip: If you choose to use a series of keyhole slots (either real keyholes or their steel equivalents) it is often much easier to hang if you map them out on a drilling stencil first. Use moderately lightweight paper (such as the *lightweight* kraft paper sometimes used for masking off paint -- usually rolls of 12" or less) and trace the plumb line for your cross, then map out by tracing the shape of each keyhole with black marker. Label this side with the words "WRONG SIDE". Since you used a lighter weight paper your marker should show through the paper. You will want to use this reverse side (the side where "WRONG SIDE" is mirrored) as your drilling template. Secure the template to the wall tight and plumb with masking tape (and "WRONG SIDE" illegible) and center your drill bit in the top of each keyhole outline -- use a center punch if needed. It is also worth using a screw or bolt whose head and shank are one size smaller than the maximum that could fit the keyhole -- this way if you are off-center by 1/32" you will have some leeway.

This saves a lot of headaches trying to measure out the precise locations for each bolt only to discover you were off 1/8" in your measuring!
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
26 ga. and lighter metal studs are difficult to anchor to, and often require wood or metal backing for fasteners other than drywall application. I'd use a moly bolt straight through the stud or a toggle bolt ensuring it has one wing behind the stud flange. If you have access to the wall from above, cut a slit in the top track & slide some wood blocking down the wall cavity & anchor it. Sheet metal screws and even drywall screws will strip out with little effort when placed in tension.
20 ga. studs will do better with sheet metal screws but you'll probably need to get self drilling (NOT self tapping) screws.
 

Dutchman

New User
Buddy
Thanks Gotcha6 and ehpoole for the suggestions.
I decided to use a bed side rail attachment bracket. I routed the back of the cross for the male part. I made a spacer to fit between the metal stud and the female part and attached it to the metal stud. I initially planned to use two, but figured I would never be able to line both of them up, so I routed the back of the cross at the bottom for an L bracket to secure the bottom. Here are some pics.


















 
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