Coopered seat dowels

[cyclopentadiene]

I am building a Maloof low back chair using the Scott Morrison plans. The two previous Maloof rockers that i have built had a flat seat and I decided my skills were up to the challenge of a coopered seat. I have everything dry fit using the 3 degree angles between the middle pieces as outlined in the plans. In the Video Scott Morrison uses a horizontal boring machine and places the 3 degree angle on against the fence to drill a hole for the alignment dowels and it really looks easy, if you have a horizontal boring machine.
Does anyone know how to set the angles with two pieces on a 3 degree angle insert a dowel for alignment or using a biscuit jointer? Morrison suggests either can be used but does not demonstrate. I have been successful at this point but do not want to mess up now. These alignments are supposedly not required but are beneficial for alignment. Dry fit, it seems to line up very well but I have not applied glue nor a lot of pressure. I assume the joints will slide when wet and the clamps are tightened.
Any thoughts on the best way to set up the alignment?

 

[striker]

I don't know if this fits your exact needs but I've used cutoff brads to hold position during gluing. In other words, drive brads in one half of the joint and cutoff proud of the surface then press the mating halves together creating a register. Add the glue and clamp together.

Just a thought

Stephen

 

[cyclopentadiene]

The seat seemed to dry fit very nicely so I decided to glue up without dowels or biscuits for alignment. I applied plastoc resin glue (Weldwood) and started with a clamp in the center of the seat top and barely tightened the clamp to hold the 5 pieces together. I then used an Irwin quick clamp on both ends at the joint to align the pieces. I then used 3 Bessy clamps on the top and two on the bottom and tightened all of the clamps. I then removed the Irwin quick clamps. It seems to be working well. i will take photos and post the glue up.

I completed the Maloof joints before glue up as the router would not have a level surface after glue up.

Next step, complete the legs and fit into the seat.

 

[cyclopentadiene]

Attached are photos of the glue up. It appears to have been successful and the joints are very tight. The first photo shows the use of Irwin quick clamps to ensure the pieces do not slide. The second photo has these removed after about two hours. It is difficult to see in the photos but the Maloof jointery is already completed. I was afraid that I would not have a level surface for the router on the bottom due to the coopering of the seat. Everything should be dry and ready to remove the clamps and fit the legs this evening.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/IMG00101-20110706-2142.jpg

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/IMG00102-20110706-2143.jpg

 

[cyclopentadiene]

Had some time to work over the weekend. I fitted the Maloof joints on the front and rear legs on the chair. This process is now getting easier with the third chair. Attached are photos of the dry fit. I also completed the grinding of the seat and have it finished and ready for assembly. Next step, finish the legs and fit the backrest. This chair is much easier than a rocker (especially since I have no spindles to complete). The coopered seat is visible with the front view. It really adds a nice feature now that the seat has been shaped. I will post photos in the next post.

 

[Shamrock]

Your turning into a chair making madman:gar-Bi Nice progress

 

[cyclopentadiene]

Attached are photos with the seat shaped and 3 of the 4 legs shaped and ready for final sanding. Next step inculdes shaping leg 4 then cutting, rough shaping and fitting the crest rail.

The plan is coming together nicely. I highly recommend the Scott Morrison plans. He does a nice job with layout and the video is very helpful. In fact the entire second vidoe of this one shows the entire shaping and sanding process. I bore easily with actually sanding myself so I had to fast forward a lot to avoid falling to sleep in this portion of the video.

 

[jlimey]

Looking good!

Keep the updates coming. I purchased the Charles Brock plans for this chair. #2 in the queue.

 

[cyclopentadiene]

Let me know when you start the Charles Brock version of the chair and we can discuss. This was my second rocker project (Maple rocker listed on this site finished November 2010). I was not impressed with the Brock plans as there are several issues. If you want to see the rocker, I have it in The Mill at Gibsonville (themillatgibsonville.com) and even more important if you know someone in the market, this one is for sale as I want to upgrade to a Sawstop. I made a lot of modifications in the Brock design in areas where the plans have flaws. If this had been my first rocker, I do not think I would have been successful using these plans.

In regards to the chair, I have the arms resawn for the curve, glued and ready to fit the joints and cut the final shape. I also have the crest rail completed. The goal is to complete the rough shaping this week, sand to 220 grit and glue up sometime next week for final finishing of the M. aloof joints. The Scott Morrison plans are excellent and thus far everything has worked perfectly. I will try to post some updated photos. The Renwick gallery has the low back chair on display right now. i am in DC every month for work and have been able to visit a couple of times to look at the work of the master to take note of his shaping lines and techniques. If you have an opportunity to see his work I highly recommend it, the master was amazing!

 

[cyclopentadiene]

Below are two new photos with the crest rail and the arms rough band saw shaped and fitted. The arms were very interesting to make as they are resawn on a curve and the flat faces glued together then fitted and cut to shape in order to have the curve of the arm as it transitions from the rear leg to the front. The Scott Morrison plans call for attachemnt to the front leg using a dowel as I have done with my rockers but the back leg is drilled and attached using a screw and then plugged. Anyone have opinions if I should use a dowel on the attachment to the rear leg as well? The plug on the back of the leg is in an odd location and if I use a dowel inside, it would not show. I am just not sure about clamping as the sweep from the top of the leg at the back to the front of the leg is about 5 inches down. The Morrison video indicates the screw is used to draw the leg together.





I have a little more rough shaping to complete before final glue up but it is coming together well.

 

[cyclopentadiene]

I was out of town last week and did not make a lot of progress with the chair. Attached are the latest photos with all of the pieces assembled and rough shaping completed. The first two photos are after wiping down with mineral spirits so I could see areas to refine (hence the shine). The final chair assembled very well with few issues. The shaping around the crest rail at the back legs is very tricky as there is very little room for the rasps and all of the sanding had to be completed by hand. I ended up doing a lot of the rough shaping with a flame shaped carbide burr in an air die grinder both on the front legs and arm joint as well as the rear leg and arm joint and using the rasps at a minimum. The crest rail was shaped with the angle grinder followed by shaping into the sides of the legs with carving tools. I need to drill and screw the legs, arms andcrest rail with 2" screws, then plug. I am considering purchasing a couple of Ebony pen blanks to make plugs but not sure if I want contrast or just use walnut for no contrast. Next time for a few days of sanding before appying finish.

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